2013 Ford Escape - Destroyed Engine

2013 Ford Escape SEL 2.0L Ecoboost
Mileage: 110,000

Sooo, long behold after a little over a week after my older post (About the turbocharger needing replacing) they took apart the vehicle and found that the turbo had for one completely destroyed itself, and for two whilst destroying itself TONS of metal fillings got into the oil, and destroyed the piston heads, cylinders, and according to them “a few other things.” There diagnosis is to have the engine either completely replacing or have the engine repaired from its current state. The estimated bid they gave was 7,000$ for parts + labor. The vehicle is worth 10,000$ max. Is this pricing correct, should I take it to another place, suggestions?

Also, what would replacing the engine with a new one do the cars value?

In this case a used good engine from an auto recycler makes more economic sense than a new engine - assuming you have to pay this bill.

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In this case a used good engine from an auto recycler makes more economic sense than a new engine - assuming you have to pay this bill.


Indeed, I did research online earlier and found this. Although, the ford dealership will NOT install this. They only buy their engines directly from Ford. (I’d have to find a third party to install it and warranty their install)

What would this do to the cars value?

Well, right now the cars’ value is only what a junk yard will give you for it.
That link you provided-look at the warranty. Only the block and head is warranted, who knows when that turbo might let go.

If you say nothing to next buyer? No difference in value. If you put in lower mile motor? Increase in value. New turbo? Increase in value.

That does not even matter . As said it is pretty much scrap value now.
Since it appears that you will have to pay for this only you can make that decision . I would just bail and put the money on something else .

yes, get a second opinion.

A used engine is not a bad idea, and an independent shop will likely be far cheaper on labor than the dealership will be.

You want to get the vehicle back on the road as cheaply as possible.

That’s a very good price for a used engine with only that many miles.

But when replacing a major component on a vehicle, I prefer to purchase the used part locally. That way if there’s an issue with the used part, you aren’t shipping it back to the supplier and waiting for another used part to be shipped back to you.

Any independent shop can replace the engine in your vehicle for probably less than the dealer.

Does it raise the value of the vehicle?

Not really. Your vehicle still has 110,000 miles on it. But a used engine installed with fewer miles makes your vehicle more attractive over the other Escapes with 110,000 miles.

So, get it back on the road as cheaply as possible. And hope you get another five years out of the vehicle before the transmission gives up the ghost.



According to your other thread, the SUV still ran, it just didn’t have the power it is supposed to, and the check engine light was on. So the engine apparently still runs well enough to get you from point A to point B, without spending $7000+.

I looked online at the cost of a remanufactured turbo or a new aftermarket turbo, and the step-by-step instructions to replace it. You would need a lot of tools, and a good floor jack and set of jack stands. If you could do it yourself, you could buy the turbo for about $600 online, figure another $100 for gaskets, hoses, and incidentals. Even assuming the engine ingested metal particles and scratched up some of the cylinders, it might still run adequately if you replace the turbo, though it will probably burn a lot more oil as a result.

If a DIY turbo replacement is out of the question, it would not make sense to spend the money to have that done profesionally on a questionable engine. The turbo and gaskets/hoses/incidentals which would cost you less than $700 online would probably cost $1200 or more for parts alone at shop prices, plus another 6-7 hours of labor. It would not make sense to spend that much money to end up with an engine that will probably burn a lot of oil, and have a permanent check engine light on, even though it will probably perform adequately otherwise.

I would say that if you really like this vehicle, it might make sense to have a junkyard engine and remanufactured turbo (or new aftermarket turbo) installed by a reputable shop, assuming a decent warranty of course. Otherwise, it might be time to trade it in, or sell it on Craigslist as a “mechanic’s special” and put the proceeds toward something else. If this vehicle is worth $10,000 in running condition, you should certainly be able to get at least $2,000 as it sits.

Any explanations for how the metal shreds from the turbo failure got into the engine-block’s oil system? Wouldn’t the oil filter prevent that from happening? If I had that problem I’d be twice shy of installing another turbo-equipped engine, and would be wondering if there’s a non-turbo engine that could be used for the replacement instead.

There’s a component called the turbocharger oil return line.


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That’s not how I read this. I read this to mean that the metal shavings were released into the intake air, and ingested into the cylinders, leading to scratched cylinder walls.

But regardless, I would not want any engine with forced induction, when a NA engine can provide excellent performance and reliability without the added risk and complexity.


If you look at copper line you can see the bumps from the steel chunks in the oil. Ha.


Re-inforces my belief I never want a turbo’ed engine . Just give me a normally aspirated ICE .


I can only speak for myself . . .

I wouldn’t pay more for a used car, just because somebody put in a used motor and turbo with lower miles than the car itself

Instead, I’d be wondering why it was necessary to replace them in the first place

I’d also be wondering if it was due to neglect, aggressive driving, etc.

And on top of that, I’d be wondering if something else got buggered up during the engine swap. Such as forgetting to tighten stuff up properly, not properly recharging the ac, not burping air out of the coolant, reusing gaskets that should be replaced, and so forth