Trying to figure this out. Only the outer most headlight on the left works. It’s the smaller round one. It’s the outer rubber cap one and the cap is missing. There is also a rubber cover with a light under it closer to the middle of the car. My research says this inner one is the high beam. This side was in an accident too and the fender is bend and the corner of the bumper cover is ripped away. It has the short width bumper that I hate but it brings more work for me I guess. Somehow the headlight assembly didn’t get hit. The front apron seals and the splash shield are gone too. The yellow driving lights work. Didn’t try the fog lights.
What is confusing is that this light (the only working one) comes on with the high beam switch with the blue indicator on the dash. The lights switch is turned all the way clockwise. Are the lights actually off, and the high beam switch is turning on both the low and high beam, but only the low beam is working, and the high beam has failed? Are the wires crossed from low to high? Did someone remove HID headlights do a bad job?
The person wants to upgrade to better LED lights because he thinks they’re brighter, but want to start with stock lighting first! Besides don’t know anything about how well LED replacemnts work to replace a high power 55W H11 bulb due to the heat dissipation required. Saw a video where the LED replacements by Sylvania are $100. Are they even any brighter?
Replacement LEDs create more problems than they solve. Stay away from them.
Get out the old DVM and start checking first for a good ground on both sides. Got ground? On both sets of lights? Yay. Now check voltage to the lows and the highs when each switch is set to ON. Do we have voltage? Yes? Change the bulb.
No to any of those questions determines what you do next. Obviously… fix the ground or chase the supply voltage back to the relays. Lather-rinse-repeat checking those for voltage and grounds. If there is no voltage, a bad switch is suspect. No grounds; fix grounds.
Thanks! The left side seems to be working now for both low and high beams. I’m not sure what the problem was before.
It turns out that the wires going to the right head light assembly are broken. I hadn’t noticed the first time. Driving in the snow with all the inner wheel well splash shields missing seems to have caused this.
Now the bad connections on the fan resistor issue has happened, and the fan doesn’t always work. The radio doesn’t turn on. The exterior temperature was stuck at -34F. Now it says 11 but it’s really 28. The horn is now broken now that it was exposed to salt water with no front wheel aprin seal. It is located right in front of the right wheel. The hood is very difficult to close latched. The driver’s window doesn’t work. The fender is dented, but the fender is attached on the door side with some adhesive foam stuff. it is very difficult to remove, let alone putting the new one on. We removed the door at the junk yard to get to the fender. The ABS warning is on too.
The 11 year old Fusions at the junk yard have more rust on the sub frames than a 20 year old Camry. These are the cars that Cash for Clunkers brought us.