My 2011 Nissan Cube after just driving 5 miles or more when I stop at a light or stop sign my engine idling just fine but won’t accelerate and I have to put flashers on for about a 100 yds until it takes off and seems just fine with no slip. But will do the same thing at next stop, so I have it parked until I’m sure what the problem is before spending anymore money.
Are there any dashboard warning lights on?
1 Like
+1
Welcome to the forum, please give us more info, like what codes if any…
So it does not due this until it is at normal operating temp??
Does the engine rev up or bog down, or just not respond to the gas pedal when it acts up, like the pedal is not attached to anything??
You might have to use a scanner and look at the live data to see what is happening…
You said before spending anymore money, care to share what all has been done to fix the problem??
Thank you for your response.
- It just don’t respond to the gas pedal and only when stopped to take off.
- They are 2 code that come up, both are transmission codes. I should be able to get from the last shop.
- I first had transmission oil and filter changed for $574 and no change.
He said one of the codes was a starter motor in the transmission I think.
They will install a new nissan transmission with 100K warranty for $3600 plus oil and taxes.
Service light
Do you mean the RPMs remain low, around 700 to 800 RPM when you press on the gas pedal?
Or, do you mean the RPMs go up, but that car doesn’t accelerate?
It stays the same 700 to 800
Then I would think accelerator position sensor, not a transmission problem.
First step though is getting the code numbers—most auto parts stores will read them for free. Then post back with the actual code number. Format will be a “P” followed by four numbers.
1 Like
You might need to look at the pedal position sensor as well as the TPS at the throttle body to see what is happening when you have the dead pedal…
But codes would be nice also…
Ok, it will be tomorrow before I can get the info and thanks
My codes are P0868 and P1778
OK, not sure who recommenced the transmission, but sounds like a dealer that only replaces transmissions or a transmission shop that no longer builds transmissions…
Find a transmission shop that still builds and knows about CVT transmissions and have them properly check it out…
The P1778 is for a stepper motor solenoid which is intended for synchronization of gear ratio of the pair of cone-shaped pulleys by increasing or decreasing the distance between them.
I think the valve body has to be dropped in order to replace it…
The P0868 is for low transmission fluid pressure, The Pressure Control Solenoid Valve ‘B’ (secondary pressure solenoid valve) regulates the secondary pressure to suit the driving condition in response to a signal sent from the Transmission Control Module (TCM).
You could need a few parts, or a valve body or electrical issue, or a TCM issue or a combo of some of those, or even internal damage requiring a rebuild or exchange for a new transmission…
Is There a possibility that these are old codes because I was told by the used dealer that the transmission had been replaced.
I think I’m just screwed. But I want to thank you very much for all your help and research.
One more thing a guy at the shop that changed the fluid and filter said a new trans would need to be programed. Is this correct?
Most used car dealers install used parts, if they replaced it with a new one then it should have come with a warranty…
Was this a buy here pay here lot (tote the note) dealer??
I wouldn’t be surprised, I have seen Nissans have to have the ECM’s flashed after installing a basic sensor…
Again, you might just need a few sensor/solenoids and save you a ton of money, have it properly checked out…
A reputable transmission shop will have all the software to program whatever is needed, they will do a turn key job…
For my own education and edification , how does the transmission prevent the engine from increasing speed (RPM)?
Does the computer programming act as an rev limiter in this situation?
Probably the ECM picks up the fault from the TCM and goes into a limp mode and kills the throttle pedal response to keep you from doing anymore damage to the transmission… Got to love drive by wire… lol
The smart members on here can put it in more technical terms… lol
Thanks, that’s kind of what I thought, or to prevent the engine from over revving and self destruct.
1 Like
Dave, I wanted to give a update on my Cube transmission problem. I first changed the oil and filter at $574. Problem didn’t go away. New Transmission was going to cost nearly $4000. So I decided I would just be very careful and drive it until it totally quit. Well the more I drove it the better if got and now it doesn’t hesitate at all. I’m not sure why but they put some expensive additive in when they changed the fluid. Again I would like to thank everyone who tried to help with my problems.
1 Like
That is interesting, I wonder what additive they used??
Glad it seems to be working better, let us know if anything changes…