My check engine light came on I had AutoZone run a diognostics and it the code p2111 came out Wich told me to change the throttle body. I changed it and before I could get back to AutoZone to have my check engine light turned off it went off on its own…is this normal ??
Yes, this is normal. The computer recognized the problem was fixed and turned off the light.
So I have another question after I replaced the part that AutoZone said needed to be replaced because of their scanner code now my car just did the same thing it did before which was lose all power to the gas pedal until I shut the car off and restart it again do you have any ideas on what that could mean
You may have a “Faulty throttle position sensor” that tripped that code originally and the old one was reinstalled on the new throttle body.
I doubt that the new throttle body came with a new throttle position sensor.
Is changing the sensor difficult to do
No. Unplug it, take the two screws out. Remove the old sensor and replace it in reverse order.
Okay thank you
From what I seeing here, the better guess for a part to replace for that code is the throttle position sensor, not the throttle body.
"What causes the P2111 code?
This code is set when the PCM sees the throttle plate sticking in an open position. Usually this is due to a faulty TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). If this code is set and the throttle plate is actually stuck open, there will be other codes set and the TPS may actually be relaying the correct information to the computer. "
I called the ford dealership an two auto stores and they say there is no throttle position sensor for the 2011 ford fusion se… I went back to AutoZone and they a
Said the only other thing they can think of that would make that code come up could be the gas pedal sensor? But I have no clue
The Throttle Position Senor is located inside the Electronic Throttle Body that you replaced.
So do you think its more likely that I bought a faulty throttle body or could it be the gas pedal sensor? I’m not even sure what the pedal sensor is
You stated that you experienced another throttle problem but you didn’t say if it had the same fault code or a different one.
Yes it did have the same code I went back to AutoZone an that’s when he mentioned it could possibly be the pedal sensor
The warranty for the throttle body on certain 2009 to 2013 Ford Fusions has been extended to 10 years/150,000 miles. Perhaps you could install the original throttle body, take the vehicle to your Ford dealer and have them repair the car. If a new throttle body doesn’t solve the problem they should be able to diagnose the problem.
There is also a PCM calibration update to correct Electronic Throttle Body problems.
Ok thank you for all your help I appreciate it
On your car – and most cars these days – there’s no mechanical linkage between the gas pedal (the thing you press on w/your foot) and the throttle valve (inside the throttle body). For example, on my older Corolla there’s a steel cable that connects the accelerator pedal to the throttle valve mechanical actuator directly. On my much older truck there’s a sturdy rod. No electronics involved at all. But on your car, nothing mechanical. Zippo. Nada. The way it works on your car is the computer reads the angle of deflection you’re pressing on the gas pedal using the accelerator pedal sensor, and then translates that into how far to rotate the throttle valve, done by sending electronic commands to the throttle valve electrical actuator located in the throttle body. The latter is the part you replaced apparently. That latter part also contains another sensor the computer uses to verify it moved to the position it just programmed. The code you’re getting is saying — based on the accelerator pedal sensor — the computer has commanded the throttle valve motor to move the throttle valve to a less than full throttle (less than wide open) position, but the actuator’s sensor is saying it is instead at wide open position. Not a good thing in other words. That code is not likely caused by an accelerator pedal sensor problem. You could have that problem, but it wouldn’t result in that code an any straightforward way. I’m assuming the car isn’t jolting forward at high speed for no reason, so most likely either the actuator sensor is wrong, or the computer isn’t reading the sensor correctly.
If you are the scientific type, you can verify for yourself there’s an electronic sensor on the accelerator pedal. Just take a look.
Since you’ve replaced the throttle position sensor apparently as part of replacing the electronic throttle mechanism, my guess is there’s a problem in the electrical connection between that mechanism and the computer. If you want to try something yourself, take a good look at the contacts on both side of that electrical connector. Clean any gunk-looking stuff you see from the contacts. If there’s anything that looks burned, that might require a new connector on the harness side. Less likely, but still quite possible, is that your replacement unit is also faulty. I have no experience with that particular part, so I don’t know if there’s a simple way to test it or not. On my Corolla there’s a sensor for the throttle position – but not for the accelerator pedal, not needed due to the mechanical linkage – and that sensor is relatively easy to test using a dvm. In any event yours can definitely be tested. But b/c of the computerized relationship between the pedal and the throttle valve, testing the sensor may require the use of Ford’s scan tool, which a dealership shop would have. Most of the better independent shops that work on American cars would have it too.
Another idea, on my Corolla at least that throttle position sensor needs to be properly adjusted at the time it is installed. Perhaps yours hasn’t been adjusted yet. Ask your shop if that’s a possibility. On your car, it may not be possible to adjust.