2006 Nissan Maxima, shaking over 60mph, UPDATED



This is an update to my maxima shaking over 60mph. Just had new tires installed, alignment, etc. Went back to tire installer and they rechecked all tires and said they are good. Although they are new they put a different tire on the passenger front where the shaking is and the problem is still there. However, today I noticed something that I’ve not picked up on before so maybe it will help. At 60mph and above the car does shake but only if you have your foot on the accelerator. If I get up to 75mph and coast…smooth as can be. The second I touch the accelerator shaking again. Thanks for all the help.


When they install new tires, they usually inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints for wear, to make sure they will be able to align the front end. Since you said the vibration is slight, I guess there could be a small amount of play in one of the front hub bearings, which they may not have caught. If you don’t drive a lot at highway speeds, and if the vibration’s not bothering you too badly, I might be inclined to just drive it for a while until it gets a little more noticeable, then the source will be easier to find. But if you want to address the issue now, your regular mechanic should be able find the problem in short order.


Does the shaking commence the instant you start applying the gas pedal or only after you press far enough to start loading the engine again and maintaining speed? Trying to separate an engine miss from driveline issue…


Couple of ideas, may not help but won’t hurt and things worth doing anyway. One thing you’ve got going for you, you’ve narrowed it down to the right passenger side. Make sure the differential fluid is at the proper level. This may or may not be the same as checking the transmission fluid level, ask your mechanic. While checking the fluid level, ask them to check for any unusual difference in the amount of axial and rotational play, comparing left and right front half axles & CV joints. Next check for play in the wheel bearing. Next hand spin the wheel and measure the radial run-out (for out of round). Now measure the side to side run out of the wheel. Finally remove the wheel and check both run outs as above, but on the hub itself. I’d double check that tire balance is at least statically (i.e. bubble balance) spot on while the wheel is off anyway. When reinstalling the wheel, torque it up in three rounds, by hand.


Sounds like a worn out CV joint to me.


Yeah that’ll create a wobble but the good news is it won’t last long so diagnosis should be easy when the joint falls apart and the car won’t go. How do I know you ask?


I had a CV joint fail on my Rabbit one time. You are right, car won’t go.