My daughters car is a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. The charge light has been on for some time because I can’t figure out what is going on with it. When I first looked at it I was only getting 10-10.5 volts at the jump posts. My first thought was that it was the alternator. After installing a new / re-manufactured one still had the same problem. I pulled the battery and had it tested. It was marginally okay so we decided to buy a new one for it. The problem persists… Still the same scenario but know I’m getting 14.7 ish volts at the alternator but not at the posts. Then I thought that maybe it was the voltage regulator. Unfortunately, that is built into the ECM and was a very expensive trial and error on my part. So far new alternator, battery and ECM and still no battery charging is going on. I don’t know where else to go with this car except for maybe the bone yard… You guys have any thoughts? Any Chrysler experts here that has experienced a similar problem?
I would make sure the battery cable connections are properly cleaned. Both ends on both sides. If problem persists, have the cables checked for resistance. Sounds like the problem is between alternater and battery or between battery and ground.
You don’t say…
Does the vehicle offer up any OBD2 trouble codes? If so, what is/are the code(s)?
CSA
You stated the alternator is putting out the correct voltage but the battery isn’t getting that voltage. The advice that @Tester gave is the answer to your problem. You have blown fusible link which looks like a normal piece of wire but it isn’t. There may be a piece of rubber at one end of the link to help identify it. It may be close the alternator output connector or the starter solenoid connection perhaps.
Today I only had a couple of minutes to monkey with this car and here is what I did.
I took my multi meter and checked for connectivity between the positive battery post and the post on the alternator and there was. I checked between the ground post and the engine. There was connectivity there as well. I pulled the plugged wire off of the alternator and checked for connectivity between that and the positive and negative battery posts. Only the positive had any reaction. So, I plugged that back in. I started the engine and for some reason I wasn’t getting any voltage reading from the post on the the alternator but I did read voltage from it when the engine was off. This is the second “new” alternator that I installed because I believed (without checking for voltage) that I had gotten a bad alternator from the parts store. This car is such a headache. Admittedly, I’m pretty good at diagnosing and fixing mechanical parts i.e. brakes, wheel bearings, shocks, struts, steering racks, etc, but when it comes to trouble shooting electrical stuff I’m totally lost.
There is something wrong with your volt meter connections. Even with a failing alternator there should be battery voltage at the alternator positive stud.
Hey guys thanks for the replies. I’m still battling this issue. I just wanted to check in with you to let you know that I haven’t dropped the ball yet. I have to many irons in the fire so to speak and desperately want to get back repairing this car. I’m going to check the wiring as suggested to see if I can identify whether the fuseable link indeed has blown or not. I’m also considering changing out the fuse block on the drivers side fender as well. The plastic casing has a crack in it and this vehicle was involved in an accident that crinkled the hood just enough to expose all of the electrical stuff to the elements. I hope to be back soon to let you guys know if I solved this issue. Thanks again…
If the wiring and alternator are ok, maybe it is the PCM.