car will not start. engine light blinks 5 times and then goes off. when trying to start sounds like dead battery. got new battery.
Does it crank ok — that rrr rrr rrr sound with the key in start?
Do you have push button ignition or key ignition? I have a 2014 Accord and I had all kinds of problems with it going through batteries or just flat not starting doing exactly what you described. I finally figured out that it is the computer not starting the car because it doesn’t sense enough cold cranking amps. Honda said my wife 2014 Accord was supposed to have at least 660 cold cranking amps I went and bought a thousand cold cranking amp battery for the car and I haven’t had any problems since. before that her car would go through a battery about every 4 to 6 months. I was buying reconditioned batteries. They just did not have enough depth for the computer to allow the car to crank. I hope this helps.
If so, that’s a new one on me. On my car the computer commands the starter to crank, and the starter actually does crank if the battery voltage (at the starter motor) is above 9.5 volts with the key in “start”. In other words the computer always commands the starter to do its thing, and if it doesn’t it isn’t b/c the computer has an opinion on the cold cranking ability of the battery, but that just the starter motor won’t turn unless it gets enough voltage and current input. Maybe you and I are saying the same thing, but in different ways.
The computer doesn’t sense the cranking amperage of the battery. A big demand is put on the battery when the starter motor gets connected to the battery. That happens when the ignition switch or button completes the circuit to the starter solenoid and the solenoid connects the battery’s positive post to the starter motor. If the engine doesn’t turn over, the problem is not with what the computer is sensing.
A computer does not need lots of amps to work; a starter motor does. Its needs are the reason for the battery CCA rating the carmaker specifies for the car.