Please help. There is a question still on file from Nov. of 2009 titled " 2000 Volvo V-70 intermittent start problems" authored by a Tee Thomas. The question could have been written by me. Same car, year and model and exact same problem. The solutions ranged from issues concerning the the ignition, the ignition key, the antenna ring and different aspects of the fuel system. The discussion was closed with no resolution given. Obviously I would love to know what worked for this person. He or she spent a $1000 on diagnosis before asking the question here. (would like to avoid that part). Shot in the dark, but anyone know how I could get ahold of this person or anyone with the same problem that found a solution? Thanks, Walt 64
What are the exact symptoms in your car? Does it crank and not start? Does the starter not work at all when there is a no start? Any clicking sounds? We need to start over, from the beginning.
I ignored this the first time you posted it Walt because, honestly, simple reference to a thread without a link creates unnecessary work.
Here is the thread to which you refer: http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2131526/2000-volvo-v70-intermittent-start-problems-no-one-can-diagnose-help
You can click on Tee Thomas’ user name and leave a message on his/her wall. That may or may not matter.
Unfortunately, you just have an intermittent problem and intermittent problems often can’t be diagnosed unless the problem is occurring at the time. I can tell you that the knee-jerk “scan for codes / no codes found / no problem / that’ll be $100 please” reaction of many shops and almost all dealer service departments will get you no where.
Based on the symptoms Tee Thomas described, I would start my guesses at a security system problem. I’m actually not sure how Volvo’s of this vintage worked, but often the anti-theft system will allow a car to crank and start, but if the computer then doesn’t get the correct signal from the key it shuts down fuel & spark. So this would give a start-run-immediate stall condition.
Of course, you could have something more straightforward such as a wonky idle air control valve (IACV). I think this car still had one as opposed to an electronically controlled throttle body. At the very least a cleaning the the throttle body and IACV with inspection of the IACV wiring should not be too difficult and shouldn’t cost much. Doing the same on the MAF sensor is good too. Even if it doesn’t help, it’s not a bad maintenance move. I would NOT under any circumstances take it to a dealer. You’d like a nice, little, independent shop. Many areas have some that also specialize in Volvos.
Comparing symptoms to solutions makes for messy results and almost certainly guarantees you will waste the most money possible.
Every car requires a diagnosis to determine the problem. Substituting diagnostic facts for assumptions leads you to wrong conclusions.
Example:
2001 GMC van cranks with no start, there is no fuel pressure. Van needs a fuel pump.
2001 GMC van cranks with no start, there is no fuel pressure. Van is out of fuel.
2001 GMC van cranks with no start, there is no fuel pressure. Van has a chewed wire at the power distribution center.
I had a '98 V70XC and a 2000 V70XC a long time ago. On the '98 I had no start situations twice. Once was not intermittent. The fuel pump failed and the car cranked but would not fire at all. I learned these cars have two fuel tanks and 2 fuel pumps and a very complicated fuel delivery system. A new fuel pump was a $900 part only available from Volvo.
The intermittent no start situation was a dirty and ultimately bad MAF (mass airflow sensor) and that was a pricey repair but not nearly as expensive as the fuel pump.
After my experiences with these Volvo’s my primary advice is they are very expensive cars to repair, and as they age the expensive repairs occur about 2X times per year. I simply found the cars too expensive to keep and I sold them.