2000 Tundra runs, drives well- will not accelerate - goes flat when you push down to go faster

Hi, I recently replaced the starter on our Tundra (v8 2UV).Ok when you ‘granny drive’ it. Re-checked all the vacc hoses, reseated the air filter, tightened the fuel relief valve, checked electrical connectors., reset ECM. Checked the MAF sensor and seems ok (was working fine before I started). I had a shop check it and they did not address this issue - said I did a great job, attached the thermal sensor and added some coolant. I am stumped at this point.

Replacing the starter involves removing the intake manifold and fuel injector system.

How many miles do you have on this engine? Are there any other symptoms like a Check Engine light?

167k - the check engine light is on for a bad sensor on the exhaust (previous condition when it was running perfectly)

I re-ran the diagnostics and it came up with P0110 (intake air temp sensor 1) and p0100 (MAF out of spec). They suggested there may be vacuum leak and to test it using starter fluid.

If you have the code, please post it. If the exhaust system isn’t working correctly I would think it could cause this type of problem. Note that if the check engine light has been on for awhile, you don’t have any way of knowing if another code has also developed unless you have had the codes read again since it started running poorly.

OK - you posted while I was typing (smile). So, ignore what I wrote if it no longer applies as it seems it does not. Others more knowledgeable than I am may have comments about the codes you posted.

I did the ‘backyard vacuum leak test’ using starter fluid. There were no idle surges. Following the diagnostic flow charts from the shop manual, these codes point to one of three issues: Wiring harness, MAF unit, ECM. I was able to run one of the tests using a multi-meter and the voltage was in spec. I am leaning towards the MAF sensor ($121-197). I did not check on the ECM.

Still the same issue. We took it back to the local shop and they ran live diagnostics. The result was they wanted to replace the manifold gasket, fuel injector seals (‘its always a good idea’ - not for me since it took a week and three sets to get them to seal again). A O2 sensor on the exhaust is non responsive (known issue, but was not affecting the performance and we were ignoring it). ‘The carb cleaner test showed a leak, but the computer was covering it up - $1251.00’. So I replaced the intake gaskets again bought a MAF sensor and finally resealed the injectors (this got a lot easier with practice - now a 5 bolt job). Restarted it and - no change! I’m still stumped. It runs great until you try to accelerate more. Goes 60mph, but try to pass and it goes flat. My next target is the vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator.