MY VEHICLE LEAKS GAS OUT OF THE TAILPIPE. I HAVE REPLACED THE FUEL INJECTORS, THE REGULATOR VAL, COILS, AND HAD THE SPARK CONTROL CHECKED. MY CAR STARTS, BUT YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE GAS IS LEAKING OUT OF THE TAILPIPE. WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO DO. DO I NEED TO RECALABRATE/REPROGRAM THE COMPUTER???PLEASE HELP THIS IS THE ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION AND I AM RUNNING OUT OF OPTIONS.
If you’re sure that is gasoline dripping out then the likely suspects IMHO are the fuel pressure regulator and the possibility that the fuel injectors are not pulsing on and off.
A stethoscope, long handled screwdriver, noid light, etc. could be used to verify if the injectors are pulsing or not. They should click faintly when the engine is being cranked over.
I would suggest checking the oil level. If the engine oil is fuel contaminated it should be changed after the problem is determined with very little driving being done with the oil in this condition. Gasoline diluted oil will wash crank bearings out.
Pulling codes might be a good idea but there may be a ton of them at this point.
I shall try this. Thank you for your response.
I’m with Okie above in being a little suspicious that the tailpipe effluent is really gasoline. It is perfectly normal on many vehicles, especially when started cold, to drip water from the tailpipe. This water is so fouled with exhaust products it may appear to be raw fuel. Verify its nature by catching a few drops in a tin can, use it to moisten a paper towel, and see if you can get it to burn.
How do you know what the liquid coming out of the tailpipe is? Water will drip from a cold exhaust. The liquid you see may have just enough gasoline in it to have a gasoline odor.
Does it have this drip when you start the engine when the engine is warm; or, is it only on a cold engine?
If you have (or, can get) a fuel pressure gauge, you can do a test, if you feel up to it. Connect the fuel pressure test gauge. Crank the engine. Shut it off. Watch the fuel pressure. It should hold for 30 minuets, or more. If not, the fuel injectors are probably leaking (or, being held open). Of course, it’s possible that the fuel pump isn’t holding residual pressure. This is where the repair manual comes in handy. Yeah, I know, repair manuals are expensive (about $20); but, less than the price of a fuel pressure regulator.
If you make any tests, tell us what you find.
I can only add one thing. Excessive use of the CAP LOCK key can cause this problem. It also makes reading your messages more difficult for most people, so many will just not bother answering.