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2.7 Santa Fe 2003 issues after timing belt change

Santa Fe

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So we did a timing belt and water pump change on this suv yesterday , this is the second one car has 120,000 miles on it we just. Bought the car about a month ago , so we changed the belt water pump did change the seals or and thing else . We put everything back together all marls were lined up and everything , but I tighten the crank pulley after drive belt and everything was put on could this of three off the timing , the car is running a little rough nothing crazy and threw a cam shaft code , but checked the sensor and it’s working fine , thinking the timing is off if it is how would I fix this ??

Is the DTC P0018?

Take everything apart and double check your work.



Does the timing belt go around two camshaft pulleys? If so, that arrangement can be difficult to deal with, even for a pro-mechanic. Usually what happens is there’s some unwanted slack left in the path and you end up with incorrect valve timing. Pro mechanics usually learn how to do it after doing it incorrectly a few times. They often use special tools that lock the camshafts so they won’t turn.

I believe that is not true. The shops that I have worked in replaced one hundred or more timing belts each year, I only recall two cases in the last twenty years where a timing belt was installed incorrectly.


Pro mechanics know what can happen if it’s not right the first time.


Well, they are not “pro” until they learn how to do a timing belt job right :slight_smile:


Hey thanks for the replies , the code it is throwing is a P0340 cam shaft position sensor , I took the upper cover back off and can see that the marks aren’t lining up any more . The bottom sprocket mark and upper right mark are still lined up but now the top left mark is about a inch behind the mark now . How can I i fix this please !limage|375x500

As far as I know, you have to do the whole job again. You can reuse the belt, etc, but there’s really no way to adjust things.

With every T-belt I’ve done I’ve always manually rotated the engine through 3 or 4 revolutions and double checked to make sure the marks line up again. Then a recheck of all bolts/nuts etc before buttoning it all up. So far I’ve never screwed one up.


well, since engine “kinda runs”, it looks like no irreversible harm (read “valves damage”) was done, so getting tension released and realigning marks should be all what’s needed

nice tool, found it on ebay for $11, then thought “well, but if I’m there am I not going to replace camshaft front seals too?” and that kind of spoils the idea behind the tool

So got the timing all lined back up car is running good only thing is when stopped the car vibrating but put it In N And it stops any ideas

Did you have to move or remove an engine mount during the TB replacement?

Yes upper one but looks fine thought maybe I tore the lower when jacking up the bottom oil lab but it to looks good

Dunno. My 1999 Civic’s lower one looked bad when I did the TB last year and I put a new one in. Couldn’t tell any diff in vibration, though.

I had similar trouble when replacing the upper torque link and engine mount in my Nissan Altima.
It vibrated, not badly, but annoyingly.
I untied the mount so it would have a chance to move a little bit, started the engine and with brakes applied put transmission into D then to R several times to let engine/transmission assume the “more natural” position, then fastened all bolts/nuts back and vibration was gone.

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Any indications it might be misfiring at idle? Vibrations at idle are usually caused by

  • engine misfiring
  • engine/transmission mounts faulty
  • engine idle rpm too low

George, since putting it in N gear stops vibration, it is neither misfire, nor low idle (quite imaginary for modern ECM-controlled cars I would assume).

Try cleaning the throttle body/IAC valve to see if that helps.