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So we did a timing belt and water pump change on this suv yesterday , this is the second one car has 120,000 miles on it we just. Bought the car about a month ago , so we changed the belt water pump did change the seals or and thing else . We put everything back together all marls were lined up and everything , but I tighten the crank pulley after drive belt and everything was put on could this of three off the timing , the car is running a little rough nothing crazy and threw a cam shaft code , but checked the sensor and it’s working fine , thinking the timing is off if it is how would I fix this ??
Does the timing belt go around two camshaft pulleys? If so, that arrangement can be difficult to deal with, even for a pro-mechanic. Usually what happens is there’s some unwanted slack left in the path and you end up with incorrect valve timing. Pro mechanics usually learn how to do it after doing it incorrectly a few times. They often use special tools that lock the camshafts so they won’t turn.
I believe that is not true. The shops that I have worked in replaced one hundred or more timing belts each year, I only recall two cases in the last twenty years where a timing belt was installed incorrectly.
Hey thanks for the replies , the code it is throwing is a P0340 cam shaft position sensor , I took the upper cover back off and can see that the marks aren’t lining up any more . The bottom sprocket mark and upper right mark are still lined up but now the top left mark is about a inch behind the mark now . How can I i fix this please !limage|375x500
With every T-belt I’ve done I’ve always manually rotated the engine through 3 or 4 revolutions and double checked to make sure the marks line up again. Then a recheck of all bolts/nuts etc before buttoning it all up. So far I’ve never screwed one up.
well, since engine “kinda runs”, it looks like no irreversible harm (read “valves damage”) was done, so getting tension released and realigning marks should be all what’s needed
nice tool, found it on ebay for $11, then thought “well, but if I’m there am I not going to replace camshaft front seals too?” and that kind of spoils the idea behind the tool
I had similar trouble when replacing the upper torque link and engine mount in my Nissan Altima.
It vibrated, not badly, but annoyingly.
I untied the mount so it would have a chance to move a little bit, started the engine and with brakes applied put transmission into D then to R several times to let engine/transmission assume the “more natural” position, then fastened all bolts/nuts back and vibration was gone.
George, since putting it in N gear stops vibration, it is neither misfire, nor low idle (quite imaginary for modern ECM-controlled cars I would assume).
