The option you mention is doable but that’s still a lot of work considering 8 bolts and you do not know which of the 8 will solve the problem. And that’s assuming the problem is even caused by a flex plate converter imbalance.
Move one bolt position over, test drive, cool off, move, test drive, cool,…
Did the replacement transmission come with another converter? If so, maybe there’s an issue with the converter or even the transmission itself. You mentioned a new transmission earlier I believe. Any used transmission can be a flip of the coin. Over the decades I have discovered that roughly 35% of all used salvage engines, transmissions, and rear axles have some issues from minor to major. I’ve seen some “guaranteed good” engines/trans/rear axles that were nothing but pure scrap metal.
That is why I never really trust them. The gambling percentage is too high for my tastes. Tough call.
Yea we were a bit concerned that debris may have ended up in the torque converter so we kept the “new” one instead of the old one… my friend says the flex plate is balanced by engineers at the factory… no idea how true that is on Honda’s.
And @Cavell I never said it was “in” overdrive I said (or thought I said) was that turning O/D off with the little button on the gear shifter caused the engine to rev higher and therefore not shudder/shake… this tells me its something to do with engine speed and perhaps something harmonic with that speed. My pal did not to me knowledge tighten those eight bolts as one should have… kinda wonder if there’s some run out. We’re gonna give it a complete look over tomorrow. Let it be noted this shake was never there prior to the installation of the transmission.
Just to be clear: I checked the rear drive shaft and there’s very little movement at all. I don’t think its coming from that. I had some concerns yesterday about it perhaps being a stuck brake caliper. It actually came to mind when I noticed a new noise coming from the rear. This was two minutes after recording this to show you what I mean.
For what it’s worth, the fact the rear driveshaft has little or no movement in it does not mean the U-joints are good. The only way of really knowing is to remove the shaft and physically rotate the joints by hand to detect any rough spots.
As for the flex plate balance, what I meant was that the flex plate AND converter are matched together. Not separately. Much like a tire and wheel rim.
Could not tell anything by the sound but that’s on me. My hearing is shot from decades of air tools, loud motorcycles, loud concerts, and probably going overkill on my guitar amps and music. Hearing aids are a bit iiffy in spite of the sales pitches and a lot of mechanical diagnosis I do is by feel. Is what it is…
Hey @TwinTurbo I thought the same but I purchased one from Amazon recently and then I discovered that what I’d ordered was a cheap piece of chinese junk that didn’t match the original TCC. Maybe I’ll pony up the bills and buy a genuine one… dam amazon.
I noticed my phone did not pick up the sound unforunately. So its no wonder you couldn’t hear it @ok4450 .
The TCC, Torque Converter Clutch, is inside the torque converter. I normally replace the torque converter on my high mileage vehicles with a remanufactured unit if I have the transmission out for any reason. I have never paid more than $200 for a torque convertor so it is cheap insurance but your Honda is built to a higher standard so expect to pay more.
By TCC I thought you meant the Tranny lockup solenoid, heh. I’m taking it to a place to see if they can’t figure this puzzle out. If it IS the Torque converter I’ll shell out the cash, I don’t want to pull it again. I still have the TC from the old tranny. Its sitting in the backyard still inside the old one LOL I need to figure out what to do with that…
So after a bit of time just taking a break more or less unintentionally, I spent some time researching and pondering with fresh thoughts. I found two guides one form Mercedes the other by a guy with a Honda Civic. I was initially skeptical because honestly the method seemed like a hokey myth.
But it worked! I’ve successfully replaced the transmission with a used one, it shifts smooth as butter, no longer lugs, or jerks around.
The solution was inducing a TCM reset. I did this following the guide by this guy:
I knew it was something simple. Mechanics tell you “oh its internal nothing you can do about it” but my gut told me differently and I was correct! 1. I’ve driven almost 1000 miles since the replacement. You might think that after that many miles and poor performance it would just die. I checked the solenoid resistance (5 Ohms) myself with a cheap multimeter and by applying 12 volts to their leads. They were fine, I heard the click from outside the transmission very clearly. I put the old back on as the “new” one had leaked right from the start.
Anyway stay positive fellas! If someone gives you bad news, especially if they’re in it for the money give it some critical thought, research, and time. You will find a solution!
