Still a lot of work to get at it, but nothing like removing and taking apart a transmission. Good luck and please keep us informed.
Iām going to tell you straight up . . .
the Honda dealer is about the last place to go for that seal
I can almost guarantee they wonāt have it AND will probably tell you āWe donāt have it in stock. Nobody has EVER asked for that.ā
Of all the other places, Pep Boys is most likely to have it, in my opinion. But youāll have to bring in the old part . . . and any numbers must still be legible. They might have the part on hand, but it may not necessarily be listed for a 1999 Honda CR-V.
Iāve often gotten the parts I needed, but they werenāt listed for any particular vehicle.
Also, youāll want to be very careful removing that half shaft
Iāve seen a lot of guys damage/destroy a perfectly good half shaft by being careless and/or rough
You want to use something like this
I removed the half shaft from my 1999 Civic in order to change the outer boot. The only sure fit boot was available from the Honda dealer. It took a week plus to get from CA to here in MN and it was not cheap, but it was the right part and anything else I could find did not inspire confidence as to fit or quality. That seal may also be a special order from a Honda dealer.
You have no clue. A stall test is not dangerous, it has zero effect on the brakes, there will be no clutch explosion, and Lucas (correct spelling) will not gum up the works. Where do you come up with this crap?
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national, timken and skf
Thatās why I said Pep Boys would be a good place to look . . . or Rockauto
The Honda dealerās about the last place I would go . . . unless you actually WANT to hear the counter guyās smug response
@It_s_Me just described what I was trying to direct your attention towardā¦ To the Axle sealsā¦where they enter the trans. They are obviously circular rubber/steel type gasketsā¦and they fail ā¦often. Then bleed the fluid downā¦Just like Its me describes.
I have one more addendum to seeing a factory Honda transmission leak at its case seal.
The first was if someone was inside the trans prior (prior case split)
The second one is when someone somehowā¦slams that trans bottom into somethingā¦hard. As in using the trans bottom like a bull bar bumper type of thing. This can be anything that could hit the bottomā¦like Ice. For other items and ways just use you imagination.
Ice is one thing people dont give enough āDamage potentialā toā¦but should. I mean it sank the Titanic, so cracking a trans is childs play for that damn frozen water.
I hope its not thisā¦ I just wanted to add to what Iāve seen before.
Butā¦ I stand behind the axle seals as a common culprit that can fool you into thinking a case seal is leaking. I think you are on the right trackā¦and they arenāt that difficult to do / try first. I say go for it.
This is from your first post on this problem:
A local shop looked at it and told me the transmission housing had a ācrackā however I havenāt seen any, all Iāve seen is a mating surface/gasket which could be seeping fluidā¦ It seems too straight and thin to be a crack. They also said something about the CV axle wearing a groove in the housingā¦ another thing Iām not sure is true. They did point out a JB weld on that crack areaā¦ which I saw that they removed.
Maybe the shop wasnāt so far off in their initial assessment after all. I would caution about blindly replacing seals in the event there is damage you may not be experienced enough to notice. Can you post a picture of the supposed crack area where they picked off the jb weld? Someone here may be able to shed some light on the veracity of that as well.
Thank you for your advice !
So my friend and I have set about taking the hub assembly off and then the half shaft. He is an experienced mechanic btw.
Turns out that first post was on to something, That crack had been repaired by a previous owner with ā¦JBWeld. And we remove that stuff to do a better job as it was indeed leaking.
When we removed the last piece of JB weldā¦ we found a dime sized hole in the case.
So Iāve ordered a new transmissionā¦ and reserved some tools from the local rental placeā¦ weāre confident we can fix this. The engine is good. The transmission is form a reputable seller, and I believe it will workā¦ Iāll keep you posted.
No the seal has not and is not leakingā¦ I never know who to believe.
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Sounds like a good project. Good luck!
BTW I had a cracked leaking cast metal oil pan on my 1999 Civic, from some unwise off roading. After a couple years of leaking I put on a new oil pan. It leaks, too, from above, because I didnāt get the gasket and/or sealant correctly place.
Thatās one of those A HA! moments. Or more like Aw Schmidtā¦
I had a suspicion and sorry to hear thatās how it turned out. Glad to hear you have experienced help and are enthusiastic about tackling the job. Sincere best wishes for an uneventful and successful transplant!
A different used trans is a crapshoot.
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Do you mean āa good used transmissionā . . . ?!
If thatās what you mean, who verified the transmission was āgoodā . . . ?!
Iād hate for you to put in a used transmission with an intact case, but with other problems . . .
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Red Green would just use duct tape to repair that hole.
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I donāt remember when gorilla tape came out was that after Red Greenās time or he might have switched from duct tape to gorilla tape?
Define ānewā transmission.
New, reman, or used?
If the latter then itās as Cavell stated; a crapshoot.
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Quite a few 2k trans from yards for $350 or so. Should be a fun job.
So an update: we got it all installed and stuff. Iāve been driving itā¦ in the time since I last posted and right now either myself or my mechanical expert friend changed a few things. I put in a new passengers side CV-Axle, a new ball joint because once I got the CV-Axle in it was rubbing against the zerk fitting on the original ball jointā¦ only place in town that had anything with no zerk fitting was Autozone with a pre-greased ball joint. Replaced the distributor cap because it had some grooves worn into the distributor contacts from the rotorā¦ He checked the gap on the sparkplugs, they seem new and have a good gap.
Iāve been experiencing a vibration issue at 1500 rpm though. It happens at just under 35 mph under slight load, and seems to happen once the transmission has warmed up. Turning O/D off seems ot fix it completely but I donāt think thatās a reasonable long term solution. Given that this town has many 30 to 35 mph zones, Iāve been getting maybe 15.5 MPG. Not ideal.
Fun fact: I donāt care what any of you think about this job, ācrapshootā or not.
Just need some help diagnosing this damn vibration.
In theory, one should match mark the torque converter to the flex plate before removing the trans/converter from the car as they are balanced. Not going back in the same position could cause a vibration much like not match marking the drivehaft and yoke on a rear drive vehicle.
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What rpm is motor at 35mph in OD? A 4cyl suv might spin the motor at a higher rpm then a sedan. My 05 suv is a 5spd auto. At 60mph I am at 2k rpm. I know my rpms seem to hunt a bit when I stay at 35-40 mph.
is there a way to balance it without pulling the transmission or the engine?
I have a theory that maybe we could pull the inspection plate off, remove the 8 bolts, rotate the transmission into place and then reinstall the boltsā¦