Put in reverse goes great. Put it in drive it takes a while before it moves. Seems like it’s in second slow
Is the transmission fluid at the right level? Is the color good?
Have the transmission fluid changed and see if the situation improves. Then start saving for either a new transmission or a new truck.
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But, it’s ONLY 22 years old!
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That’s how I feel about my 30 and 38 year old truck’s.
It’s not my place to tell the OP to replace his truck. If he wants to have it fixed that’s up to him.
Nor is it my place to make such a recommendation, but then–hopefully–reality will take effect.
Well, one can hope.
My 62 Caddy is on its original transmission ( and probably fluid). While the odometer shows 91,000 miles, I have no idea how many times it’s rolled past 100,000. If you had no experience with early hydramatics, you’d think it was broken, but it’s working just as designed. It moves 3 feet in first gear before an imperceptible shift to second. Than a long acceleration in second before a slow firm shift into third. Than an almost immediate, imperceptible shift to fourth gear.
Yeah it’s all good. It’s the shift solenoid
Good to hear. Here’s to many more miles.
Hi all,
So I have a 98 Ranger XLT 2.5 automatic trans. It recently stopped shifting gears and I don’t have the cash to pay a mechanic so i had to do the repairs myself. I removed transmission and did a full rebuild. Replaced the overdrive sprag, trans speed sensor, TCM, clutch and friction plates, filter, gaskets, ETC. pretty much a new transmission now. I just got the transmission back on and it will go into park and neutral but all other gears it acts like it is in neutral. R,1,2,D, with OD on or off it does nothing. I am thinking maybe I got something wrong with the valve body, does anyone know a good step by step video for the whole valve body? I can’t find anything on YouTube. Or does anyone have an idea what it could be? Any help would be a blessing this is my only vehicle and I don’t have any option but to fix it and at this point I’m almost $1000 into it so I need to fix the trans rather than buy a new one
Why are you attaching your question to a 6 year-old thread?
Go back to the main page,and on upper right you’ll see a NEW TOPIC button. Click that and pose your question.
Tester
Welcome to the forum…
OK, 1st are there or where there any codes? like P0731, P0732, P0733, P0734, P0735 maybe??
Did you completely take the valve body apart and clean it or just spray it off?? Spool valves can go in either way a lot of times but will only work one way for the most part…
Did you find the reason for the failure or just guess your way through it??
What did you use for a reference, meaning did you buy a manual on how to diagnose and rebuild 4R-44E transmission with all the spec for clearances and whatnots??
Are you 100% positive the transmission failed and not the rear end, meaning the pinion etc didn’t break??
This is either your valve body or similar…
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Part two:
Do you have any engagement with the wheels off the ground??
Low main line pressure??
… … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … …
Did you install the valve body correctly??
… … … … .. … … … … … … … … … … … … … .. ..
ENGAGEMENT FAULTS
No Forward Engagement
Fluid level, shift linkage, low main control pressure, filter assembly (plugged), valve body (sticking valves),
incorrectly tightened valve body, pump assembly, center support assembly, forward clutch assembly and
rear one-way clutch assembly.
No Reverse Engagement
Fluid level, shift linkage, low main control pressure, filter assembly (plugged), valve body (sticking valves),
incorrectly tightened valve body bolts (cross-leaks), pump assembly, low-reverse clutch and low-reverse
clutch band
No Forward & No Reverse Engagement
Fluid level, low main control pressure, filter assembly (plugged), valve body (sticking valves), incorrectly
tightened valve body, pump assembly and overdrive one-way clutch assembly.
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