I have a 98 Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 that stalls after 10 minutes of driving at 30mph or even at highway speeds (ouch), but it seems only if the car has been sitting parked for 5 days will the stall occur. If I drive it daily/every other day, she seems to run just fine. Somewhere in between 2 and 5 days, there is sometimes a surge at that distance, but not a complete stall. The stall has been a very specific distance that if I let the car sit for 5 days, I can essentially pull over in anticipation of the stall. When the car stalls, the dash gauges all go to 0 and lose all power steering, but headlights stay on. Otherwise, there’s been no noticeable loss of power, rough idle or anything else to indicate a problem. There are no codes on the computer. The stall happens once. I can pull over and immediately restart my car and be on my way without experiencing another problem until I let the car sit for 5 days again. I’ve read lots of posts that basically give a list of things that would take a year to troubleshoot through, but their issues seem to describe something a little more regular. Anybody have any specific advice?
This sounds like one that would be pretty hard to diagnose but it is related to one of two things. 1. The fuel system or 2. the ignition system.
I would start with fuel pressure testing. Connect a fuel pressure gage under the hood and run it up under the windshield wipers and maybe tape the gage and is hose to the windshield. Get the factory spec on fuel pressure and start driving. Watch the gage as you get close to the point where it stalls. If it is very high or low (more likely), then there is a problem. If fuel pressure is rock solid where it belongs during the whole ordeal, you will know this is likely something else.
Intermittent electrical issues are always the worst to diagnose so that is why I would start with fuel. If it is fuel related, it might just be a clogged filter but you might want to consider a new pump if there is more to the issue. Unfortunately some Chrysler products put the fuel filter in the tank with the fuel pump so it cannot be changed without dropping the tank and changing the pump. This turns a $15-20 job into a $300 or more job and is just another reason I am not a big fan of Chrysler products.
If it isn’t fuel related and you haven’t tuned the car up in a while, I would start there. The important thing is to eliminate the easy things first. You can get a loan a tool fuel pressure gage at most parts stores so you don’t even need to buy that. Just don’t let it fall off when driving or you will be out $100 or so.
Cwatkin, it’s not just Chrysler that’s putting the filter in the tank nowadays.
Unfortunately.
My 2005 Camry’s like that, as well. If you want to replace the filter, you’re talking the whole “sender”. Unless you want to go aftermarket.