Just a thought… Maybe there is a loose wire or connection somewhere.
Yeah that could totally be the case. I have been searching for such a thing for months now. Have checked the wiring going to my fuel pump many times. That could definitely be the case and something is just hiding from me really well.
The sputtering symptom is consistent with too-rich condition during cranking. So it could indeed be a faulty purge valve, remaining open when it should be closed during re-fueling. That could force a lot of gas & gas vapors into the intake manifol when you fill the tank. Purge valve supposed to be closed during refueling for this reason. Don’t know if that would explain the other symptom tho, where it runs fine, then you shut it off, next start attempt, starts then stalls after 1 second.
Cranks but doesn’t start is usually one of these
- No spark
- No fuel (low fuel pressure or injectors not being pulsed)
- Too much fuel (spark plug tips are wet with fuel, often caused by purge valve or injector(s) leaking)
If you think the purge valve is the problem in all cases, ask shop if they can disable purge valve temporarily, and see if that solves the problem. Not sure how that would be done on your 1997 Chevy, but on my early 90’s Corolla purge line from canister to throttle body could be clamped.
Thanks for the input. Yeah I’m not sure about the purge valve but I’m going to try and check it out tomorrow and see if anything is off with the resistance on the electrical connection. I also see on the sticker under my hood that there is a purge valve diagnostic switch. I’m not sure what that is exactly but I’m guessing it can be used to test the vacuum. As far as the conditions you mention that could cause crank no start, I’m pretty sure it’s not spark because it usually fires right up with starter fluid during it’s episodes. I haven’t checked to see if my spark plugs are wet, I’ll do that next time. I also haven’t been able to check if there’s pulse to my injectors when this happens because they are buried under my intake manifold and it seems really hard to access the electrical connector but maybe it’s worth it at this point.
Hard to say what the “purge vac diagnostic switch” actually does. Maybe somebody here knows. If it temporarily blocks the purge path, could be quite a useful test. Makes a person wonder if the manufacturer is aware that purge problems are a common problem with this engine configuration? An alternate explanation might be the manufacturer has found mechanics diagnosing a “possible” purge problem are messing up something else in the process b/c no simple way to do it, causing problems that didn’t exist before. So they installed a switch, making a simple way to do it is all.
Ok so I checked it out and located both the purge valve diagnostic switch and the solenoid. they are connected via a piece of hose and otherwise look pretty similar. I am honestly confused about what the purge valve diagnostic switch does but the ideas you have seem pretty oh point. However I also realized that because my exhaust system is pretty messed up I’m not sure if I even have an evap canister (which the purge valve is supposed to feed back into) so that’s a little confusing.
The part itself (the purge solenoid) is pretty inexpensive so I might just replace it. I think the only diagnostic tests I can do on it are testing the resistance on the pins, doing a click test, and testing for any vacuum with the engine running and connector disconnected which would mean that the valve is stuck open.
But also I haven’t ever gotten an evap leak code which I would expect to see if this part is faulty…
Exhaust system not related or connected to evap canister. I expect you have a canister in there somewhere. The evap canister purge valve hose (top hose in your diagram), if you follow it around the engine compartment, should lead you right to the canister. Not sure where your canister is located. On my Corolla it is near the engine air filter. On my truck, not as accessible, underside of the truck, behind the right-front wheel well.
Ahhh I see thank you for clarifying. I’ll go try to follow that hose. I do see on the diagram that it says located at rear of vehicle. I didn’t have any luck finding it just crawling around under there so hopefully the hose can lead me to it.
Look inside the trunk area too. It is usually sort of shaped like a tennis-ball container, the type that holds 3 tennis balls.
I still think this is a electrical problem. You had said some time ago in the post about a wire on the starter that was loose. I would check it again just to make sure. it is possible that the bolt or nut is getting loose from wear.
I would also try with the vehicle running going around and shaking wires under the hood, the dash, near the fuel pump to see if it cuts off. I would also bang the dash by the ignition and jiggle the wires under the dash.
you never know. if it acts up it might give you the area to look for the problem.
The vapor canister looks like this.
It’s located under the van next to the gas tank.
Tester
Thank you tester! That’s really helpful
Good point thanks. Yeah I can definitely go try moving those wires around.
Found it!! Mine is mounted on top my gas tank for some reason 
can only really feel it but I confirmed itw the right part
Thank you!!
The van has been driving perfect for the past few weeks. I didn’t ever have a satisfying fix moment where I found out what had been causing the problem so I’m still being careful. I did a couple lil things that could have been the solution, unless the problem is just hiding right now (praying its not). I replaced my cap and rotor and found a worn wire with some copper exposed under my steering wheel coming from my ignition switch that I repaired. I’m pretty sure it was the ignition position sensor wire so that could definitely have been causing my issue. I just can’t confirm 100%, I wasn’t able to recreate the condition.
Hello everyone,
I’m unfortunately back again because my van has started acting up and I’m not sure what to do. About a week ago it started occasionally stalking out and occasionally giving me the crank no start. I was able to fix it every time by removing the fuel pump relay and then cycling my ignition to build up fuel pressure. However now my van just won’t start and is stuck in the grocery store parking lot. I’m very confused because my fuel pump relay is getting power and clicking shut, but I can’t hear my fuel pump running right now. I can usually hear the whine of the motor for a few seconds with koeo. I even tried multiple relays. No other fuses/ relays seem to be bad either. I think my fuel pump is not getting power somewhere else in the circuit, I’m wondering if something inside my fuse block is corroded or burnt out, or wiring going to the fuel pump is damaged. I haven’t been able to find any damaged wiring but my fuse block does look like it’s in rough shape. I’ve tried using contact cleaner and a wire brush on the relay holder but no use. I saw this video here: Chevy Express fuse box`~~~ No Start - YouTube and it made me wonder if the issue could be the fuse block itself. Does anyone have input on this situation or other things I can check?? Thank you very much 
I have 3 Chevy vans, and have replaced the fuse box on two of them for similar situations- one was ignition related, one was Transmission control module related. Depending on your skill level, You can do like the guy in the video did and take your fuse box out (they aren’t hard to do,) and take it apart and have a look. You can also drop your tank and verify power is getting to your fuel pump.
Have you tried beating on the bottom of your tank to see if you can “kick-start” the fuel pump into working? Have you verified fuel pressure with this new set of no-start issues? Did you ever replace the fuel pump? Did you ever replace the fuel filter?
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