I’m all for using logic to narrow down the cause. I actually took it to a shop that charged me $180 for diagnosis. They claimed that just replacing the ignition coil pack and the plugs and wires should solve the problem. Said they smoke tested and found no leaks. Did this in only about 45 minutes (should have done more diagnosis in my opinion, since they charged for an hour). Then wanted to charge me $650 for the coil pack, spark plugs, and wires replacement. I refused; and did those myself. Shouldn’t have taken them more than an hour or hour and half, since the coil pack is right on top and couldn’t be easier. Spark plugs took me longer, but it was my first go round. I would think labor for the shop should be about an hour for that, I don’t know. First time I went to that shop and it will be the last.
Anyhow, the coil pack seemed, perhaps, to help, for a short trip or two, but within a day it was clear that the problems, which include running rough, had not gone away. the codes were still occurring. After I then did the plugs and wires, the van runs less rough, but still misfires / stumbles at idle every few seconds, frequently (interestingly, it seems to not happen at every idle; maybe less on a cooler day, not sure, I’ll keep listening/ feeling the stumbles). Before the spark plugs and wires, there was also a P2097 code { P2097 Code: Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 1} that hasn’t appeared since. Not sure what that indicates.
And the no-start-until-another-20-minutes-go-by problem continues unabated. It happened to me twice today.
Trouble is, I have looked up the P0171 code and read any number of web accounts of possible causes, of which about 6 or 8 depending on the site… none of which even mention the crank position sensor, and none of which suggest any way to narrow it down aside from working one’s way through the list. Not too surprising, I suppose, but in the case of parts that cannot be tested, the test is replacing them. For example, the PCV valve is offered as a possible issue. But I don’t know any way to test that valve, and removing it involves destroying it, for this vehicle.
The no-start issue has happened intermittently over the past year. It m a y have become less during the winter, which would point to the crank sensor possibility, if I am to understand that the sensor can be “bad” in a way that only occurs in hot weather (?), rather than in an engine that is of course, hot most of the time… If the sensor malfunctions when hot, then why can I start the van easily if I have only stopped for a few minutes (the engine all warmed up), but if I stop for something like 10 or 15 minutes (also engine all warmed up), then it wont’ start…
I am not a very experienced car diagnostic person, but I do wonder if a leaking injector that only leaks when the engine is hot, but stops leaking as the engine cools off some, could be the problem… so if one stops for a short while, then the leak isn’t enough to cause a problem, but after 10 or more minutes, enough fuel may have leaked into a cylinder to cause a flooding problem? Does that make any sense to you more experienced mechanics? And then after an even longer period (the 20 minute recovery), the leak has stopped and again there is not enough built up to cause the no-start?