The driver’s window won’t go down. Since the A/C doesn’t work, this is a problem, but I’ll tackle the A/C later.
I have replaced the switch with one from a similar car. Still no joy. I’m assuming that switch was good, but it was not testable at the salvage yard. Is there a way to test either of them off of the car? I can make the window’s motor work by taking the plug-in out of the motor’s pigtail and using a jumper battery where the plug in goes. The window will go both down and up by reversing the leads from the jumper.
The fuse must be good because all the other windows work.
What else is there to check?
Key on voltage from fuse 14 connects to the “one touch down module” on the yellow/green stripe wire.
Down voltage to module from the switch is on white/black
Up voltage from switch to module & motor is on solid yellow.
Solid red connects the module to motor.
Solid black is the module ground.
One of these wire is broke or the module is shot.
The module is mounted towards the rear of the door.
Thank you so much 87 Ranger. You nailed it. In fact when I found the module and shook it, it rattled like a baby rattle. I got one from the same donor as the switch I didn’t need, plugged it in, and voila!
Now tell me, does a 2000 Taurus use the same system? I gave up on one of those a month ago without thinking to ask here. The symptoms were similar. I don’t know if the owner ever got it fixed.
Well, if you had asked about a 2000 instead of a 95 i could’nt have answered your question.
I have the factory wiring diagrams for my 87 Ranger/95 Taurus/97 Explorer/02 Sonata.
I have the factory diagrams for all my cars because they make fixing electrical problems so simple.
Odds are that 2000 that you worked on was a very different setup then the 95.
Ford probably added a “generic electronic control module” which controls part of the circuit on the 2000.
Why not take a nice simple setup like on the 95 & make it more complex?? LOL
Thanks for the update & i’m glad that worked out for you.