1995 Honda Accord LX Station wagon problems starting (help please! Problem still arising!)

Hi all, I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX station wagon… The problem is that When I go to turn the car on it cranks but takes a few times times for it to start up (then runs perfect) or even sometimes it won’t start up at all but just keeps turning…(this happens every time I turn the car off and go to turn the car on again) I have just recently taken it to a local mechanic and got the fuel injectors changed… But still the same problem arises… One day I also went to turn the car off and i took out the key an the car kept running, i had to put the key back in and switch the key back and forth once again for it to finally turn off) I have a few ideas that I think it may be please help me in trying to find out the problem! (1. Main fuel relay 2. Fuel pump 3. Clogged fuel line or 4. Ignition switch) again all ideas and opinions are open! Please help me as this car is my main source of transportation as of now!!

I apologize, my car is not a 1995 it is a 1994 it was a TYPO!!!

The problem is probably with the ignition switch.

If you turned the engine off and removed the ignition key, and the engine kept running, there’s an apparent problem with the ignition switch.

Tester

It has only happened once out all the times that I’ve gone to turn the car on and off! (Could that still be a possibility??) you don’t think it could possibly be a fuel problem??

@Tester‌

If the ignition switch failed to shut the engine off one time, it may be the cause of why the engine doesn’t start all this time.

Tester

I agree with Tester about the switch. Switches have been a problem with Honda for a long, long time.
Some models are under a Recall for them but your car is not one of them.

Recalled or not the cause of failure and symptoms are the same; no start or intermittent stalling, etc.

Ok I appreciate that a lot! I will give that a try! Any ideas on just about how much it would cost just to replace it?? @Tester‌

@Tester‌ I have bought the switch already but I heard it was a possibility that it could be the wiring harness that connects to the ignition switch… I’m going to the junk yard to get a few car parts that I need should I go ahead and get that as well??

@shanonia‌

@"the same mountainbike"‌ can you please give an opinion as well??

@the same mountainbike

I had a similar problem with me car turned out to be corrosion on the battery and where the fuse box is.

I just bought a new battery because the one the previous owner had was already going to die out… What do you mean by corrosion on the fuse box?? (Excuse my ignorance please)

I own a 2003 honda so I would guess it’s a similar set-up to yours, however it may not be. Anyways the positive cable from your battery (to the left of the body of the car) connect into the fuse box. It turns out the reason my car was having these rapid clicks/starting issues was because of massive corrosion in this area. So your car might not be getting a good enough electrical connection.

So… In essence what happens or how do you find out if it is corrosion in the fuse box?? & what would I need to do??

However, it seems more likely that it is the ignition switch, since Hondas are notorious for this.

As in what do I need to look out for when I connect it to the fuse box & what Gould be noticed

Yes I have been told that numerous times I have just gotten the igntition but have yet to replace because I have also been told it could be the wiring harness that connects to the ignition switch so I have been waiting on someone’s response as to if I should get the wiring harness as well while I’m fixing this issue… As you stayed in your post I as well am coming short on funds to fix my car :confused:

El-hombre-Boricua, I sincerely apologize for having taken so long to get to this thread. I’m highly flattered that you’ve asked specifically for my input. I can tell you with complete confidence that you’ve gotten excellent advice from some of the best in the business already.

And, as already mentioned, if the engine kept running when you turned the key to OFF, you definitely have a bad switch. You may or may not have an additional problem contributing to the starting symptoms, but you gotta change the switch anyway, so start there.

Again, sincere thanks. It’s humbling to be singled out, especially amongst as knowledgeable a group as hangs out here. I look forward to hearing the results of the switch change.