It turned out to be a bad ECU. I picked one up from a salvage yard and it fixed my issue of no power to the fuel pump and I’m able to get CEL codes now (16/Fuel Injector).
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Update: I checked the fuel pressure and it went from 30psi down to around 5psi in about a minute with the key being in the ON position.
Also I siphoned/drained out the gas that was in the tank. Attached is a picture of what it looked like.
That car has been sitting for longer than “a while”, that gasoline is 5 years old, fresh gasoline is not black. Old gasoline will ruin the fuel pump, the tank needs to be drained/cleaned and the fuel pump should be replaced.
I use a spare spark plug for that test. Then I know the spark is jumping the distance it is supposed to jump, so it’s a good test of the ignition system. I’m always hoping to see a bluish-white spark. Anything with a red or orange tint is suspect. Usually however I either see a bluish white spark, or no spark at all; the latter being a pretty good clue something is amiss.
I have a new pump and a sending unit on order because it was clogged (arrives tomorrow).
I’m hoping this is the issue. The OBD1 is giving me a fuel injection code.
Ok I’ll try it with the spark plug once I get the fuel issue addressed.
Holy SH*& man… That was FUEL? Oh my…my my my… That is NO BUENO… So do the spark test I had outlined for you earlier… To answer your question yes, that is the spark I was referring to…it needs to be strong and blue, you can literally hear it.
If you are adventurous you can shock yourself with it for giggles…you will know its strength without having to ask anyone, I promise… lol. Cant possibly tell you how many times I’ve let that voltage run through my body whether intentional or unintentional… this may explain my demeanor and mental state but those questions are best left to those above my pay grade.
In all seriousness you need fresh fuel and a nice strong bluish spark to begin to make some internal combustion gasses. Let us know how you make out, and I commend your efforts to troubleshoot. We here do enjoy helping those who help themselves and get their hands dirty. Good Luck
Yeah I knew it was bad when I took the fuel pump out and it smelled nothing like gas. So I figured I’d just take it all out and start fresh.
I’ll try the spark test with the actual plugs later today. Wouldn’t my OBD1 give me a code for the ignition if there was a spark issue or no? The only code I’m getting is “Fuel Injector”.
I cannot remember the ecm fine print from that far back. Why rely on anything other than yourself to verify spark?
Half the battle in troubleshooting is verification and then moving forward. Verify, Verify, Verify… and maybe even double check to impress your friends.
Computers are great at doing what they are told to do… and unless you know precisely what they were told to do and how they go about it… You are lost. Hell even today ecm’s don’t know much about spark and who is to blame when it doesn’t happen (that issue happens a lot actually and surprisingly)
Use your eyes and ears here please…its not difficult
Yeah, you’re right, I was just thinking out loud. I have a spare plug to test with, will try later in the evening when I can see better.
Ok, so I tested the spark. It seems to be a mix of blue and orange. I took short videos of each wire…first one it’s hard to tell but there was spark:
Don’t worry about how pretty the spark is, the engine is not going to run on that fuel. Clean out the tank, install the new pump, purge the fuel line and replace the fuel filter.
I emptied out the tank, replaced the fuel pump and put clean gas in but I have not purged the fuel line yet or replaced the filter.
Ok, I figure it’s best to list everything I have done so far because I think some of my steps are lost in the replies based on a few of the comments:
- Replaced battery
- Replaced all 4 spark plug wires and plugs
- Replaced main relay
- Replaced ECU
- Ran ODB1 for CEL codes (came back with 16/Fuel Injector)
- Emptied fuel tank
- Replaced Fuel Pump
- Checked fuel pressure after fuel pump replacement (35 psi)
- Checked for spark (all plugs fire)
Next steps:
- Check Fuel Injectors for clogging
- Clean or replace fuel filter
Also, the engine is making a slightly different sound when attempting to start…not sure if this is progress or not:
Lastly: I have started to take apart the fuel injection rail line so that I can access the injectors. When unplugging the fuel line from it, I could smell and see the newer/cleaner gas…so it’s getting to the rail line. Just haven’t confirmed whether the injectors themselves are good or not yet.
I need to reach back into my memory banks for this stuff but… Didn’t this Honda use those fuel injector resistor boxes usually bolted to the pass side of the vehicle under the hood? It used to look like a small amplifier with an aluminum body and cooling fins on it.
If so… and the OBD1 ecu is complaining of a fuel injector code. It could emanate from that little finned box. I cant recall if you have one of those at the moment but… Honda’s used to, I know that much. hmmm
I’m not in front of the car but are you referring to what is in the picture below? If so I think I faintly remember seeing it. You’re thinking it could be faulty?
That there is the one I had in mind Sir, Yes That is the fuel injector resistor block… All injector pulses run thru it…
I forget what the ecu complains of when that box is at fault… but since all injector business runs thru it… We can rather safely assume that it could be “In Play” during the scenario that your code specifies.
I will see what my old Honda stuff says about it… Gotta knock a wall down and dust off my miners helmet…its here somewhere. Stay tuned.
Thanks, I was reading up on this resistor last night…seems like they don’t fail very often, but I can snag one up at the salvage yard cheap. But I believe from what I’ve read, the ECU can give a fuel injector code for a bad resistor, though it is less common than for a bad Main Relay
Anyway I can test the injectors without removing the entire fuel rail assembly?