12 volt accessory and cig lighter not working may have quit at the same time . I do not smoke so i don’t know when they quit, but would like to charge my I POD and cell phone. All fuses appear to be good. One source said i may have two separate grounds . Have tried to trace the accessory wires to thier source under dash but could only go as far as behind the glove comprtment.
Are you getting 12V at the center of the outlets? If you use the voltmeter with a good ground, and see 12V, then the ground is bad. I’ve seen some of these factory designs lose the ground within the two-piece body. I managed to fix a couple of these by taking some stranded wire, and looping some of the strands in-between the two pieces to restore the ground connection.
It’s the fuse, always the fuse. It would be most unusual for a ground to go bad. If there are two separate grounds we can virtually rule out grounding problems. Try swapping some fuses of the same rating. When testing, be sure the ignition switch is in the correct position.
HAVE CHECKED ALL THE FUSES UNDER THE DASH AS WELL AS UNDER THE HOOD.12 VOLT OUTLETS AND CIG LIGHTER ARE CONNECTED BEHIND THEIR OUTLETS. AS BEFORE I TRACED AGAIN THE WIRES OF THE CIG LIGHTER AND TWO 12 VOLT OUTLETS TO A POINT BEHIND THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT WHERE THEY CONNECT TO A BLACK RECTANGULAR BOX WHICH HAS WRITTEN ON IT IN PART 12 VOLT. DON’T KNOW WHAT THAT COULD BE. STILL STUMPED.
It’s time to reach for the voltmeter and do some electrical troubleshooting, as described in the first reply.
It could be the connectons on the back of the outlets/lighter. However, your comment that “All fuses appear to be good.” indicates that you don’t know which fuse to check. Check the documentation that came with your car and the diagram on the fuse cover/panel, find the correct fuse, and change it even if it looks okay. Sometimes with tiny fuses it is hard to see the break in the fuse and visual inspection fails you.
Oh, and STOP YELLING AT FOLKS WHO ARE TRYING TO HELP YOU!
There is obviously a fuse listed for the 12V outlet, but in actuality the current that goes to the outlets may go through 1 or 2 other fuses before it gets to the listed fuse, so it made sense for you to check all fuses. I don’t know how you checked them but a visual check isn’t good enough. If you don’t have one get a “12 volt test light” at Pep Boys or wherever. Cheap. Attach the alligator clip on the test light to a
KNOWN GOOD GROUND, then with the ignition on touch the probe end of the test light to one side of a fuse, then the other. (Each fuse has 2 little metal contacts to touch the probe to.) If your test light lights on one end of a fuse and not the other, the fuse is bad. If neither end of the fuse makes the test light light, turn on the headlights, try high and low beam, or turn on whatever electrical accessory the fuse
in question runs. You may not be able to figure this out- no problem. In this case, attach the alligator clip of the test light to say, the positive battery post, hold the probe end of the test light to one end of the fuse, and carefully touch the other end of the fuse to the negative battery post. If test light lights, fuse is good, obviously. Also check the diagram or underside of fuse panel cover or whatever to
make sure there is a fuse there. Good luck. If you were to let us in on the make model, year, etc, maybe some kind soul could check out a wiring diagram for you!