Wise to relocate air temp sensor?

On my 2k dakota, my sensor is screwed into the Intake manifold. I’m wondering if relocating it like the new cars, to the intake hose would help any?

Anytime you alter the engine from the original design, you’re inviting possible problems. What condition do you hope this change will fix?

Well i’ve got a serious issue nobody can diagnose. I just wanted to try this and see if it had any affect. Once a week or once a day, i will start to accelerate from idle and truck starts trying to die and will backfire through throttle body. Had a mechanic replace plugs, wires, cap, rotor and check all hoses. I even pulled crankshaft sensor out and notcied it was gunked up, cleaned it and still same issue. Been happening for 4 years now and i’m sick of it. Once it quits trying to die, it will lung forward and keep rpm up about 20 seconds.

I see where you had a mechanic change a bunch of parts, but I don’t see where you had a machanic try to diagnose the cause of the problem. I guarantee you that changing the location of the temp sensor (or any other sensor) won’t fix the problem. Changing oue of them might, and I could make a suggestion, but changing parts without diagnosis is a crapshoot.

What codes has the ECU stored? That’s the best starting point.

No engine codes. It never does it when scanner is hooked up to it, just at random times. I meant to say that ive had 5 local mechanics drive it for awhile and it didn’t do it for them. They checked for vacuum leaks, loose timing chaine etc. This was even happening before I had my PCM replaced. The PCM was fried before when radiator sprayed antifreeze into my electric fan and killed it. I’m trying to make sence but i’m at work and have to type fast lol.

I highly doubt the IAT is your problem. Sounds more like ignition or ignition timing. A backfire through the throttle body can happen when a spark plug is fired when an intake valve is open. This lights off the air/fuel charge into the intake system and out of the throttle body. Since this happens only once a day at most, I feel safe ruling out a mechanical issue, like a damaged valve train.

I’d have every sensor and module involved with ignition timing checked, including the cam sensor, crank sensor, encoders, ignition module, and pick-up coil in the distributor, and coil(s). Something is sending a wacky signal.

Has anyone checked the fuel pressure regulator? Your symptoms could all be caused by excessive variation in fuel pressure. Other candidates are the mass airflow sensor and the manifold absolute pressure sensor (if you have one).

Because of the backfiring, dying idle, and revving idle, I’d be looking diirectly at the things that control fuel metering.

I have had one person tell me to just do the crankshaft sensor since mine was gunked up. The time I did buy a new sensor, it was faulty and truck wouldn’t start so I gave up. I’ve got a multimeter and don’t know how to use it. Going to try and get someone to check. Over the past 2 years, I have replaced every sensor but the crank and cam, i’m thinking those might be the bad guys but I do want to do like you guys are saying and have someone test the sensors.

It was checked last year and reading was fine, wish i could get reading when truck is acting up. Fuel system is all factory from 2000 lol. If the regulator is in the tank then thats going to suck trying to check. I do want to replace it soon though to be safe.

How gunked up was the crankshaft sensor? Could it be a sludging problem?

It could also be a bad coil or ignition module (if it has one separate from the PCM).

The fuel pressure regulator is usually under the hood. On my car, it is on top of the engine in the fuel rail.

I know for sure it has a ignition coil, was replaced with a accell coil just to try and get minor boost out of my hamster wheel engine. Not sure what ignition module would look like. It was gunked enough you could not see the 2 metal contacts.

I think on this vehicle the pressure regulator may be on top of the tank next to the pump assembly. But the wise thing to do is pick up a maintenance manual at the parts store.

As far as I can tell it is in the fuel tank, form sites ive looked at. I would think after 4 years whatever it is would fail. So sick of this. Not to mention I have to deal with shaky ride thats related to the frame being bent lol.

Um…the plot thickens.
That bent frame would not have been from a T-bone accident, would it?

Just from being rear ended. Now when I go over a speed bump rear shakes and if you talk it sounds like your beeting on your chest. Already tried 6 different sets of shocks, luckily for free lol. Can’t get frame fixed so i’m stuck with it.

The fuel tank on the Dakota is located under the bed just aft of the cab, and the pump and regulator are, I think, on the tank top, that’s why I was wondering.

Thanks for all the suggestions etc. Off work for the weekend so If I don’t respond ill try to respond monday.