My 95 Dakota w/318 engine misses, hestitates at acceleration to a point of stalling and has an intake and exhaust backfire. I have changed most of the sensors, new cap rotor plugs and wires, EGR valve, fixed a vacuum leak,new distributor bushing, had a intake manifold leak fixed, installed another used computer with no change, after market fuel pump was changed before I got it and check timing chain for wear or slippage. I noticed someone else had similar problems and no responses or solutions. Is there anything someone can think of that would repair this problem?
It sometimes pays to check the really simple things. Have you double checked the firing order to make sure you don’t have any wires switched or are off by a tower on the distributor? Either one can cause exactly the symptoms you describe.
I’ve checked more then once.
Dakotas of this vintage are notorious for belly pan leaks, I don’t know if this would cause your symptoms though. Google “Dakota belly pan leaks” for more info.
I found this site for a 98 Dakota with the same problem. Replacing the O2 sensors was the fix. The 1995 is OBDI and only has one 02 sensor though.
When I had my 95 Dakota (V6 Auto) I found this site to be very helpful. Try posting or searching the Archives.
Good luck with your Dakota, I miss mine.
Ed B.
The O2 sensor has been replaced, no difference
Instead of concentrating on what part to change, you need to think of troubleshooting. This is a list of troubleshooting areas to investigate: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/common/repairInfoMain.jsp?whereId=52&whereName=Engine+Compartment&whenId=151&leftNavPage=troubleShooting&whatId=5&symptomName=Backfire&selectedLinkName=Sounds&whenName=Starting+Engine&targetPage=diagnosisBody&diagnosisId=49 You may have to register at the site to see the information.
Backfire into the intake is a mistimed firing of one or more cylinders. Your repair manual, which I expect you to be using, will explain how to set up timing, and things to be careful of, such as crossed wires, or crossfire of adjacent wires.
Isolate the mistimed cylinder(s): Disconnect, and ground one spark plug wire at a time, and start the engine. Reconnect that spark plug wire and disconnect another, until you have done all eight. Did the engine have less intake backfire with one particular spark plug wire disconnected? If it did, leave that one disconnected, and disconnect and reconnect the remaining seven, one at a time. (The throttle will have to be increased to get the engine to run.) If better, but, there is still intake backfire, leave those two disconnected, and repeat the procedure on the six…then five…then four…etc. After doing all eight cylinders this way, and there is still intake backfire, something else is wrong, such as base timing, etc.
The backfire isn’t a constant thing it does it at acceleration not at idle. Another thing is that it runs better when cold, once it warms up it misses more and it starts up fine cold but it’s harder to start hot. At higher RPM’s it misses less
Retard the timing by turning the distributor 1/8 inch, or so, if you can. Then, if worse, advance the timing a bit. If that made no difference, the engine may be having lean misfire. Check the vacuum performance at the intake manifold. Here are the instructions on that: http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-tips-on-reading-gauges/tips-on-reading-gauges-vacuum-gauges.cfm
I replaced several vacuum lines that were hard then checked the vacuum, it’s in the normal operating zone at 20 hg. It drops when opening the throttle then goes back to 20. When I disconnected the gauge the engine sounded better and then when I started to replace the plug it stalled out. When on the road at acceleration it sounded like it was fluttering and at a stop then hitting the accelerator it almost stalls. I think I have several problems at the same time.
I have the same problem with my 1995 dodge SLT 318 after about 10 min of drive it backfires going about 50 mph once or twice while Im driving it.
Henry
Mine starts the missing and hesitation after it has warmed up and also runs a little better at higher RPMs, lately I had a vacuum gauge on it showed good vacuum but after revving the engine a few times I looked and the gauge was topped out on the pressure side. So now what?
I had problems with my 1995 dodge 1500 after all I had done I went to a dodge and they found defective o2 sensor and also my catlytic converter was broken. I had that fixed and so far its good for a week.henrys
The O2 sensor has been replaced and running with the exhaust pipe disconnected had no effect just backfired louder. I was wondering if i should look at the fuel injectors if they are dirty would the engine run poorly and still not throw any codes?