I have a 2011 8th-gen Honda Civic with a couple transponder keys (the kind with the built-in chip) and one electronic “fob” key that has lock/unlock/panic buttons on it. My wife likes to use the fob key.
Basic problem: The fob key stopped working, and replacing the 1620 wafer battery doesn’t help. Tried cleaning the tiny batt terminals too, didn’t help. The fob electronics appear to be kaput.
There is apparently an easy reprogramming procedure that I could do: I could buy a new replacement fob key, open it up, and switch the electronic innards of it into my old fob key. Then there is a simple procedure for linking the car with the new electronics in the fob key. This is a very cheap solution, it seems.
Question: If I do link a key fob as described above, will it invalidate the link with the simple transponder chip keys for this car? Or should the old transponder chip keys still work?
These guys should be able to give you the correct answer. They have a van stationed outside many Costco locations, and it’s likely that there is one reasonably near you.
I don’t know if I have any chip keys. Why not just buy two new fobs and be done with it? I have had a new fob programmed for my Acura with no problems and had two new ones for the Pontiac programmed by the dealer. The new fobs made the old ones inactive so maybe just ask the dealer. One place on line sells the replacement rubber insert pad for about $10. That might b3 the issue.
Why? Basically just like to save money and keep with current habits. I prefer just the “key” and my wife likes the fob. Anyway, from reading and thinking more on this issue, it seems that the transponder system (which keeps ignition disabled unless the chip is sensed) is completely separate from the remote controls on the fob for this car, so I think my question is answered now. I actually found a transponder chip in the old fob innards, and will simply keep it there when I put in new remote control electronics. Cost of innards on replacement fob: $11. Pretty cheap.
The immobilizer system will accept up to 6 keys. New keys can be added without deleting existing keys. Programming the keyless entry transmitter is a second step in the programming process.
The coil in the upper right corner is the antenna for the immobilizer receiver, but it also uses the processor in the middle.
Just for general information. All of a sudden my fob did not work. I change batteries every January just to keep them fresh. Checked my spare which also didn’t work so went down the oath of possible fuse blown. Didn’t find any so new battery got the first working after only six months. Maybe old battery stock. On the spare fob, one of the connections from the battery was loose. Soldered that back and then worked. So all was well again. Guess it’s always the simple stuff but that’s why I change batteries once a year. Guess I just use it a lot maybe. Yeah I have regular keys too without the chip to open doors and start the car.
Thanks for ideas, guys. The batt in my dead fob actually tested OK voltage, just a tad less than a new one, and over 3v. Also, the LED doesn’t light up when buttons are pressed. So yes, some connection is not working in the electronics. BTW, the transponder chip in my fob is not as in the picture above. It is a simple solid one, looks like a tiny rectangular magnet. It is also not wired in any way to the electronics in the fob. I have some experience with this sort of transponder before. As long as it is close to the key blade upon insertion, startup will be enabled. When I hold it close to a chipless key, the chipless key can start the car.
I’ve had some experience with the “intermittent” key fob issue on a Dodge I used to have.
Couple of lessons learned:
Going to the dealer is by far the best, though admittedly most expensive, option, to get new key fobs. It will be done right, with Honda parts, and they’re usually open on weekends.
Going to a locksmith can be just as good, though their prices vary, and they can’t always do what the dealer can do. But they tend to be cheaper.
Your car is 15 years old. It may start having weird problems like this. I had a 2009 Dodge Challenger that seemed to “eat” key fobs. I had to get around 4 created/programmed during the 7 years I had it. When my last “known good” fob stopped working (car would randomly not recognize it), and I noted the car was 15 years old, and the car had 200K miles on it… I decided to get rid of the car for something newer. It had other issues, too.
