Unlikely that a COP failure would stop the engine and keep it from starting again. That has been pointed out earlier in the conversation, more than once.
OP did not have a COP fail, from what we can read here.
Unlikely that a COP failure would stop the engine and keep it from starting again. That has been pointed out earlier in the conversation, more than once.
OP did not have a COP fail, from what we can read here.
There is a remote possibility that the failed coil blew the ignition/injector fuse.
It appears weāll know soon enough, provided OP keeps us informed. Iād guess a single coil failure could cause intermittent fails to start. Especially cold starts w/a 4 cylinder engine.
And l would guess that your diagnosis is wrong
Hard to get 1 coil? OP is a no show.
Iād tow it to mitsu dealer.
Thatās not a bad idea, but it could be a very long tow. This might vary in other parts of The US and in other countries, but Mitusubishi dealerships are few and far between in my neck of the woods.
Only 4 miles from you! Thatās convenient. I wonder how far the nearest Mitsubishi dealer is from the OP?
Three in the Minneapolis area. Thatās Minnesota, usa. Close to Canada.
Nope lawn mower put away for the season, oil plugs filter for next year. Snow blower season now. Maybe Iāll buy a snow mobile. Eat your heart out. The cold kills all those little critters.
UPDATE: Sorry for the delay and thank you everyone for your advise and insight.
The ignition coil and replacement fuse as you all advised did not fix anything. I am scheduled to go to a mechanic shop next week ( one a friend of mines husband works at ).
The check engine light came back on and I have not be driving since, it is parked until the mechanic can look at it ( donāt want to add more problems ). I did notice a rattling noise ( almost like loose change in a can) for a second or two when I start to accelerate, I checked the dip stick and the oil is above the 2 dots and a finger swipe from the tail pipe. I have a clip of the sound, however this platform will not let me upload it. I also added the codes from OBD2 reader.
lol OK now thats a good oneā¦ Iāll give you that. I actually needed a good laugh.
Are you very low on power . . . ?
Iām somewhat concerned because youāve got catalyst efficiency codes on BOTH banks
In any case, I feel youāre on the right track by bringing it to another shop for a second opinion
If the engine wonāt start, you have no choice.
Did you find a blown fuse? There was a 1 in 1,000 chance of having a blown fuse for no reason.
Fault B1130: Ignition Power Supply is for the ignition switch circuit, not the high voltage engine ignition coils.
There was a recall issued 7 years ago for faulty engine control relays. that recall may have already been performed but might be related to your ignition circuit problem.
SR-17-005: 4609
After the ignition coil and fuse replacement the car seems to drive āfineā as far as driving the 30 ish KM before the check engine came back on. Once I noticed the check engine light on I got home ( 15 KM ish ) but the car was still driving fine as if nothing is off lol.
Reply #53 says car does not run after coil and fuse replacement.
Reply #56 says car runs after coil and fuse replacement?
Yeah good catch. Trying to figure out what the actual problem is but then kinda gave up.
Maybe the OP does not have a car. And gets off trolling people.
Not trollingā¦I just donāt know eefff all about cars.Young Female with no car knowledge