Why won't my car start now?

Unlikely that a COP failure would stop the engine and keep it from starting again. That has been pointed out earlier in the conversation, more than once.

OP did not have a COP fail, from what we can read here.

There is a remote possibility that the failed coil blew the ignition/injector fuse.

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It appears weā€™ll know soon enough, provided OP keeps us informed. Iā€™d guess a single coil failure could cause intermittent fails to start. Especially cold starts w/a 4 cylinder engine.

And l would guess that your diagnosis is wrong

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Hard to get 1 coil? OP is a no show.
Iā€™d tow it to mitsu dealer.

Thatā€™s not a bad idea, but it could be a very long tow. This might vary in other parts of The US and in other countries, but Mitusubishi dealerships are few and far between in my neck of the woods.


4 miles away. And a 2nd is 6 miles further. We have 2 real close on my side of town.

Only 4 miles from you! Thatā€™s convenient. I wonder how far the nearest Mitsubishi dealer is from the OP?

Three in the Minneapolis area. Thatā€™s Minnesota, usa. Close to Canada.

Send Bing over there with his lawnmower.

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Nope lawn mower put away for the season, oil plugs filter for next year. Snow blower season now. Maybe Iā€™ll buy a snow mobile. Eat your heart out. The cold kills all those little critters.

UPDATE: Sorry for the delay and thank you everyone for your advise and insight.
The ignition coil and replacement fuse as you all advised did not fix anything. I am scheduled to go to a mechanic shop next week ( one a friend of mines husband works at ).
The check engine light came back on and I have not be driving since, it is parked until the mechanic can look at it ( donā€™t want to add more problems ). I did notice a rattling noise ( almost like loose change in a can) for a second or two when I start to accelerate, I checked the dip stick and the oil is above the 2 dots and a finger swipe from the tail pipe. I have a clip of the sound, however this platform will not let me upload it. I also added the codes from OBD2 reader.

lol OK now thats a good oneā€¦ Iā€™ll give you that. I actually needed a good laugh.

Are you very low on power . . . ?

Iā€™m somewhat concerned because youā€™ve got catalyst efficiency codes on BOTH banks

In any case, I feel youā€™re on the right track by bringing it to another shop for a second opinion

If the engine wonā€™t start, you have no choice.

Did you find a blown fuse? There was a 1 in 1,000 chance of having a blown fuse for no reason.

Fault B1130: Ignition Power Supply is for the ignition switch circuit, not the high voltage engine ignition coils.

There was a recall issued 7 years ago for faulty engine control relays. that recall may have already been performed but might be related to your ignition circuit problem.

SR-17-005: 4609

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After the ignition coil and fuse replacement the car seems to drive ā€œfineā€ as far as driving the 30 ish KM before the check engine came back on. Once I noticed the check engine light on I got home ( 15 KM ish ) but the car was still driving fine as if nothing is off lol.

Reply #53 says car does not run after coil and fuse replacement.
Reply #56 says car runs after coil and fuse replacement?

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Yeah good catch. Trying to figure out what the actual problem is but then kinda gave up.

Maybe the OP does not have a car. And gets off trolling people.

Not trollingā€¦I just donā€™t know eefff all about cars.Young Female with no car knowledge

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