Last week I got my car serviced ( oil change, break fluid and transition flushed and replaced) I drove all this week in a different city with no problem. Today I drove around and then last morning today I leave one spot and I get on the highway and not even a min later my car just slows down, Thankfully I was able to pull over safely. I go to turn on the car and it will not start. I see the oil and battery light come on.
I am waiting to hear from the automotive shop what the problem is,however I know some places will just take as much money as they can.
I do not know much about cars,but I find this really odd. I would assume that because the car was in the shop last week something would have shown up if there was a problem with the alternator or something.
Any ideas? any easy troubleshooting that can be done ?
You should have had a check engine light come on when the engine started to slow down. Trouble shooting begins with having the codes read.
No, things happen, cannot predict future problems of car is not showing any problems. An alternator may be fine one day and kaput the next. If the alternator light was not on when the car was running your alternator is likely fine. All the trouble lights should light up with key on, engine off.
I did not notice a check engine light. however to be honest I was more concerned with pulling over safely so I very well could have missed it. When I tried to start it once I was pulled over I only noticed the oil and battery light on.
could he by chance be as simple as the tech who did the oil change not tightening things up after the oil change or no?
I don’t believe so.
There might have been a noise that sounds like something dropped ( like as if a small piece of gravel hit the ground ) but nothing clearly noticeable.
First, define “did not start”. Did the starter motor work, that is, was the starter motor cranking the engine over? If the starter motor was not making its usual noises, was it totally silent or did it make either one click or a series of clicks?
If the starter motor was working, was it turning slower than usual? If it was turning normally, did the engine sound like it was trying to start or did it just crank?
BTW, it is normal for the battery and oil lights to come on when the engine is not running. It indicates a problem when the engine is running.
When I push to start the car it attempts to start, so you hear some clicking. Then the oil and battery light comes on and the push to start light ( directly on the button ) stays on and I have to press it again for that light to shut off.
Others that have advised me ( without looking at the car) made mention that is could be:
the battery
alternator
OR
the “gravel sound” dropping/ hitting the under carriage I thought I may have herd right before the car slowed down could potentially be the oil cap popped off if it was not secured properly when I got the oil changed last week.
If you only hear clicking, then either the battery is low or the engine has partially seized. The gravelly sound could be the timing belt if so equipped, that would not be good.
Just checked, you have a timing chain so no belt to break.
Battery was my guess, but it was replaced Jan 2024, And thats the same sounds I herd last time when it was actually the battery
The gravelly sound is not on going. would that still be the timing belt? When I say gravelly, I mean it sounded like a piece of gravel hit the under carriage of the car ( like a “tink” sound, once or twice)
when the car was slowing down it let me use the break as normal, however when i tried to start it the break peddle on the second or so try was stiff. It would not let me press down on it.
And when I tired to start it one of the times there was a rubber small. Now I don’t know if it was my car or passing traffic ( because I was on the highway) and I did not get the smell with every turn over attempt.
What would cause the engine to seize ?
I am super on top of my car maintenance often getting things done before they need ( oil changes right at 3 month mark if not before. Never hitting the KM for oil because I don’t travel in my car)
Just got the break fluid and coolant changed out last week despite them saying it can wait, " just letting me know its a service that’s coming up (3-6 months from now would have been perfectly fine).
Also I really apricate all the input everyone has given. Thank You all.
Low engine oil level. Mentioned b/c the symptoms occurred immediately after an oil change. Hopefully that’s not the problem. But suggest to have this checked to be certain before any further starting attempts. Engine oil could leak out of the engine via the drain plug at the bottom (if it wasn’t reinstalled properly) , or out the oil-filler hole at the top where there should be a cap installed preventing that. If the latter, that would only occur when the engine was running, and would create quite an oily- mess in the engine compartment, so would be easy to see.
You were looking for a connection between the oil change visit and the vehicle stalling while driving: No engine oil due to oil filter failure or drain plug falling out.
There are symptoms associated with a charging system failure that you did not notice: battery warning light, low voltage causing audio system to cut-out or HVAC system to shut down, dim lighting etc.
Ok. Well thankfully I have not noticed any oil pooling under my car OR oil splatter on the engine when I popped the hood. The Car was driving less than 2 min after I heard what I just assumed was a piece of gravel that hit the under carriage today before the car slowed down and stopped.
Currently at the mechanics, but not sure when they will have time to look at it.
Atleast it sounds less like a seized engine so thats a good start.
All the info you have given me is also really helpful so I can build a mental estimate of what I will be looking at (ofcouse this is all theoretical until the mechanic gets back to me ).
If it ends up being something stupid/ funny yet unfortunate I’ll update here.
So currently with all this information the most expensive/ likely cause would be the alternator. Am I correct in that ( only because a seized engine would be unlikely with my maintenance “OCD” and lack of signs of oil leaking/ splatter?
And if its the alternator I would be looking around the $2000 max mark. likely under but on the higher end right?
Coils are not expensive.
You have 1 coil per cyl. If you have 4 cyl motor you have 4 coils. 1 coil is $50-75. And they are very easy to replace.
A single coil can die. 2 or more? No way
1 bad coil might make motor stumble or run poorly. You might notice poor performance. It would not stall the motor and make it unable to run.
Turns out it was the ignition coil. The mechanic just called, part is ordered and will be sorted out soon.
I’m assuming the ignition coil is not covered in an inspection. Or is this something on the check list.
