No one is yelling at you .
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A) Nobody is yelling at you…
B) You can not expect to come to an open forum and expect to ask questions and not get different answers and even have members asking you different questions…
Who is Bulling him/her???
@Blakensnake is the best person to address that question. If not wanting to be specific in a public forum about who they feel is doing the bullying , @Blakensnake has the option to flag the posters/posts. I fully expect the moderators here take a dim view of bullying.
I just looked through the replies. No one is yelling, bullying or making out of line comments. If stating how they would handle a purchase like this bothers Blaken then he is way too sensitive.
George, you are the one that said Bulling, NOT the OP, so I am addressing you, who is bulling the OP???
There is a big difference in Bulling someone and yelling at someone…
I have had yelling matches with other mechanics as well as bosses at work before, but I never bullied them nor did I ever felt bullied…
Yelling in real life, or all caps yelling in forums, is a form of bullying. cyber bullying.
Likewise a poster who constantly posts immediately after another poster might be cyber-stalking. One of the posters here said they felt they were being stalked, and decided to leave the forum b/c of it. Fortunately they seem to have come back.
No it is not, it is trying to emphasize a point, just like talking to someone… sometimes you have to all caps (yell) someone to get a point across… Like DO NOT drive your vehicle with no oil in it, I was not yelling then, I was making a point and stressing the point of not driving with no oil… Am I Bulling some by emphasizing to someone not to drive with no oil?? Sometimes it takes all caps to get the attention of the person you are talking to, otherwise they might miss it…
I don’t recall ever using all caps to emphasize a point. That would be rude forum behavior imo. If you feel all caps isn’t yelling, nothing I can do about it. If someone feels bullied by such behavior , flagging is what the moderators suggest. Refer to the FAQ forum page. Esp the section on how to disagree without being disagreeable. Focus your dispute on the content, not the poster.
Nice going George, you have taken another thread off topic.
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If, for some reason, I needed to replace rotors, I’d get a real brand like Raybestos. However, usually, I just take the existing rotors, clean them up by hand using a sanding block and fine-grit sandpaper, and then reuse them. A brake rotor does not need to be flat within thousandths of an inch. It’s not a gasket mating surface. As long as the rotor isn’t warped/severely gouged, the new pads will conform to the surface.
Check back at the rockauto site and scroll down to see if they have the Raybestos Element3 rotors. They cost a little more but I feel they are worth it.
They are especially good in the rust belt as they resist corrosion better.
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You’re very welcome. I have changed many pads and rotors over the years. I like the Raybestos Element 3 or Street Specialty rotors. The AC Delco Gold rotors are pretty much the same as the Raybestos. My go to pads are Raybestos EHT or NRS Brakes out of Canada. The Raybestos EHT’s have a higher friction rating so they really bite nicely. The NRS pads have galvanized backing plates and mechanical attachment to the pad material, just like many OEM pads. They have decent bite and excellent longevity, but they are pricey.
Actually, it does need to have less than 0.002" runout or vibrations are likely to be felt in the pedal.
Interesting analogy. Consider that a gasket is typically compliant, will compress and therefore allows for some deviation. A typical head gasket for example, may allow for up to 0.002" deviation. The typical runout on a brake rotor before it can be felt is less than 0.002". So they are similar in that respect. Where they are different is a brake rotor and pads and not compliant and used in a rotating application where that small amount of runout can be felt by the operator.
I agree and have dressed rotor surfaces for decades using a rotary sander and flap discs- as long as they didn’t have more than 0.002" runout, I re-use them. Once they deform enough to be felt or are worn below the minimum specs, I toss them and put in new ones. Over the years I have found that pads can conform to minor surface imperfections but unless the imperfections are small, it can lead to noise once they wear to match the grooves.
The days of facing off rotors to true them up is over for some time now and the cost/convenience of new is too low to even try.
An excellent point. After dragging out all my tools, cleaning the accumulated rust/crud, jacking up the car multiple times, cleaning up afterwards and dragging the tools back it’s probably a 4 hour DIY job and the last thing in the world I want to do is is to have to repeat it because I “Saved some money” on worn/warped/el cheapo rotors.
The way I see it is that even my leisure time is worth something, more than the cost of simply replacing the rotors every other pad change.
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I’ve been satisfied with Detroit Axle, too. I ordered a set of pads and rotors and they even threw in some caliper grease and parts cleaner.
The problem I’ve had with cheap-o rotors is that they warp. So you get to do the job over in about a year.
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I am pretty easy on brakes, I don.t commute and I try to time lights, so my last brake job has lasted 4 years so far.
That is pretty good in our salt encrusted winters.
As am I. The nearest thing to a new car I have ever owned was an '89 Escort. I got over 90K miles out of the front pads and 140K from the rear shoes. The Michelin tires that came on it went for 65K-70K miles. I tried Goodyear and Cooper as replacements. No comparison.