I have an automatic 2014 Mustang v6 convertible, 94,000 miles on it. Regular maintenance always.
Well, the last few weeks I have noticed that sometimes when I accelerate the car will jerk or misfire for a two seconds at most and then be fine. During this misfiring it takes a couple of seconds before the car responds again to my giving it the gas. The wrench symbol appears. It goes away when I restart it. There are times when this jerking or hiccuping does not happen.
Today, it happened more and I did something I never do: I took it to pep boys. lol. It was the closest place, and I was thinking it wasn’t a Major thing. Well, they supposedly ran the computer code thing and called me back giving me some code number and bad news. I didn’t write the code down, but they said we think it’s not repairable. It’s transmission related. Something about needing a new first gear, something with the word “first” in it.
Now I have it at the Ford dealership, where I should have taken it, and I’m a nervous wreck.
A new freaking transmission is not something I can afford.
Here I was hoping it was a throttle body, etc.
I pray that pep boys doesn’t know what they are doing.
I think there is a rule someplace to never take a mustang to pep boys. Or a Chev, or Buick, or Toyota . . . Around here you never walk on thin ice either.
With out knowing at what speeds this is happening, it almost sounds like a Torque Converter Shudder if it is from 28-46 MPH… The TCC (torque converter clutch) shudder is due to the TCC regulator malfunction… Your 6R80 is known for this common complaint…
Much easier to tell by driving it… and knowing the codes as Tester stated…
Common concerns with this transmission are TCC shudder, rough coast down shifts, gear ratio error and solenoid performance codes. Firstly, these complaints are the result of the wear in the pressure regulator (PR) valve bore and the pressure regulator valve balance bushing. Secondly, the torque converter clutch regulator valve design and calibration were in dire need of an upgrade to address the TCC shudder complaint.
Symptoms:
Gear ratio codes: P0731, P0732, P0733, P0734, P0729
Yesterday it happened as soon as I started her up and put my foot on the pedal. At first I thought it was the rain and maybe water in the gas tank. In an unrelated matter, when it heavy rains, the floor in back of the driver seat gets wet, but yet it’s not coming in from the convertible top or my door. Weird.
Anyway, I still wait for the dealer’s diagnosis.
Hard to know what the Pep Boy’s tech meant by “not repairable”. The Mustang is such a widely sold car, I doubt there’s anything that could go wrong that couldn’t be repaired. Some repairs may cost a pretty penny of course.
When you step on the gas, a few things happen, might provide a clue. First, the throttle valve open to allow more air into engine. If the fuel supply were borderline, could cause the engine to go too lean, and cause misfires. Next, the EGR system may send an extra dose of exhaust gas back into engine, done to reduce the combustion chamber temperature. It could be sending too much exhaust gas into engine, and resulting misfires. Third, the transmission may be commanded to downshift. So could related to a failed downshift attempt.
For best results here, provide make/model/year/engine/transmission configuration. And ask shop for a list of diagnostic codes they’ve retrieved from computer memory, and post along with above.
What that meant was straight up, they don’t do transmission repairs, (maybe) only replacements but not internal repairs…
Waiting to see what the dealer says…
As someone that has chased water leaks before, sometimes they are easy to find, sometimes you just have to start taking stuff apart until you find it… I think I was probably one of the 1st techs at a Ford Dealership to pull the complete dash out of a 94 mustang, brand new and was leaking at a body seam on the firewall (don’t remember the exact details)… The dealer I worked for didn’t have any service manuals on the 94 yet, this was in 93…
A few weeks after I got my Pontiac, I discovered water in the spare tire compartment. Ran a hose and couldn’t find a leak. Took the tail light out and resealed all the welded joints, still leaked. Finally crawled underneath to inspect every panel with the body caulk gun. I found a 2 inch grommet the the guy wiring my hitch didn’t put back again. No more water. Just physics. There has to be a way in.
Need a new transmission, according to Ford dealer. $5502.00 for a new one, which they recommend because to rebuild would cost more due to labor and parts. It would triple the labor.
“Fluid burnt….always a bad sign.”
Bad downshift “slams into first” “first isn’t even there.”
Well bad news but an answer anyway. Some years ago I could have put in a brand new Gm trans for $2000. Instead I went with Rollie for 1500 to save money. Needed to do it again in a year. I would have been money ahead to just put a new one in and be done with it.
If it was a 6 or even 7 year old car, I’d go with a new unit, but since I only plan on having it 2 more years, rebuilt might be something I lean to. Still undecided.
Unfortunately, this will require transmission rebuild or replacement as already mentioned. The P0731 code indicates the internal apply clutches cannot work to apply gear…
A reman or rebuilt can be better if the causes of the failure are addressed… A new one will just have the same issues down the road unless the manufacture acknowledges the common failures and addresses the failure as well…
