I had a problem w/my truck’s carburetor throttle linkage one time. Couldn’t get the idle rpms to remain steady and it appeared the linkage was the problem. But no matter what I tried fiddling with, the linkage wouldn’t behave. Just about to give up so I spray it with WD 40. Next day, it works perfectly. What that WD 40 did to make the linkage work properly, no idea.
1 Like
The cable/bell crank actuates the accelerator pedal position sensor, the computer operates the throttle actuator motor. With the ignition off, the throttle actuator motor will not operate.
Moving the bell crank by hand, you are observing the fail-safe operation that allows the engine to operate under reduced power should the electronic throttle control system fail. The throttle can be opened mechanically beginning at 80% pedal application.
2 Likes
That makes sense
Deleted by author.
How do you know it’s not a drive by wire? If it’s not then what is it?
Pvtpublic you haven’t been very helpful at all all you’ve said is being it in to a professional. I don’t want to do that right now clearly.
Stop whining about people not taking your advice.
The early electronic throttle control systems had throttle cables. The bell crank is shown on the right.
I stand corrected and deleted previous post.
I still say take it to a professional instead of playing 20 questions. But from what @Nevada_545 said about the cable throttle being the fail safe for the electronic, you may be looking at a throttle body in the near future. Luckily they are not that expensive if you are willing to go used.
Nevada answered this above. On my two current vehicles (30-year old fuel injected and 50 years old carbureted), on either the throttle plate can easily be opened by hand, just pressing on it with my finger springs it open in a jiffy. A little spring resistance, but easy to overcome. But if there’s an electrical actuator anywhere in the linkage, there’s no telling what would happen with a manual press on the valve. Just depends on the actuator and linkage design.
Sort of like home screen doors. Some just have a return spring. Some have a sort of shock absorber gadget along with a return spring. And the latter, some of those types can be optionally locked in a semi-open position.
I am about 99% sure that it’s the fuel pump.
It actually was a combination of problems which made it confusing. It was the transmission, air filter and the fuel pump. I over filled the tranny because of the leak I told you about earlier I knew was over filled but I undestimated by how much. I had to drain it about between 1/2 a quart to a quart to get it back right this took it all the tranny issues.
I changed the air filter which restored about 5% more power.
Now I know it’s the fuel pump because the gas gauge is on “E” even when I put gas in it. The fuel pump is going bad which is confusing the gas sensor.
Now When I’m driving everything is shifting smoother, the rpms don’t drop as quickly even though it does just a little but it still seems to surge.
The key to me being so sure it’s the pump is because yesterday the gas gauge read 1/4 tank when I put gas in it, it normally never moves but this time when the gauge read the gas right as I drove the slight surging decreased.
Its fuel related
I just thought the fuel sensor went bad. It’s been like that for awhile even before there were any symptoms. I initially suspected the pump when symptoms first started but was distracted by the tranny issues.
Your suppose to replace the pump every 100k I’m well passed that now. I bought the car around 140k and I’m at 215k now the pump probably never was changed.
Oh boy. I just wandered over here because the problem has been goin on so long. The best folks here replied but now we went from the throttle sensor past the transmission to the full pump because it does not read correctly. So I’ll just say that the fuel level sensor does not indicate a problem with the pump. You test the pressure and volume of the pump, not by looking at the gas gauge.
1 Like
True. Fuel level incorrect on dash gauge doesn’t necessarily indicate a problem with the fuel pump function, but could well mean the float ass’y in the tank is faulty. Not familiar w/ OP’s vehicle, but in many configurations the float is part of the fuel pump ass’y. So replacing the fuel pump probably makes sense in any event. Hopefully it will solve both the fuel gauge display problem and the engine misbehaving problem. A good shop could likely easily verify the dash gauge problem is caused by the float ass’y prior to replacing the pump. They could test the fuel pressure too.
New air filter gives you 5% more power? That a guess?
Is this specific to the Tacoma? I have never heard of such a recommendation.
Nor have I. With the exception of my POS '74 Volvo, I have never needed to replace a fuel pump. The Volvo used to burn-out its Bosch fuel pump ~ every 11k miles, but none of my other cars has ever needed a pump replacement.
No you are not .
2 Likes
(post deleted by author)