What’s this sound? The solenoid? See linked video.
The noise has started in the cold weather. This time it started even before I got in the car. Like, I think it started when I remotely unlocked the door (before I put the keys in the ignition, even though the video starts with them in). Then the clicking slowed down when I started the car, then it sped up after the car was running. Of course (as you’ll see easiliy in the video) it has nothing to do with the wheels rolling (as noises like this usually are). The clicking goes away after a few minutes.
Ignore the flickering you see on the dashboard. It’s not there in real life (well, I mean it’s too fast to see with the naked eye) and has nothing to do with this issue. It’s just an effect of the video camera.
This is very similar to my car. Except that in my car it only occurs when I first unlock the car (by the remote) and ends within about 2 minutes of me starting the car. But I consider this solved now. Thanks.
Suggest to click the “solution” icon on the post that contains the solution. Helps others w/similar problems searching for help here. Icon is at the bottom of the post.
Oh, I don’t know for sure what’s wrong with it. But that video is so exact that I’m sure it’s the problem. But I haven’t been to the mechanic yet. The video says it’s something called the Blend Door Actuator. The video says there’s 2, one on the passenger side, too. But mine is the driver’s side.
Please post back once it is repaired with the correct diagnostic rather it is the blend door or something else…
Posting a solution before it is repaired is putting the cart before the horse and will not help anyone if it happens to be something else… not saying it is not the actuator, but not saying it is either…
I don’t remember hearing one start clicking before starting the car, mainly after cutting the vehicle off and getting out of the vehicle it/they start clicking, like in the video…
And yes I have seen hundreds of those actuators go bad and click…
I haven’t forgotten about this thread. But the noise went away, at least for now. Eventually it will come back and I’ll get it fixed then and update this thread with the actual answer (even though I’m certain it’s going to be the actuator as you all said.
The noise might be gone, but things generally don’t “fix” themselves. The blend door basically controls the hot/cold. I.e. if the system is requesting heat, the blend door moves to run the air over the heater core. If the system is requesting cooling (A/C), then the blend door changes to run the air over the A/C evaporator.
The clicking usually happens when the main (cheap plastic!) drive gear on an actuator motor breaks. Then the system gets all out of whack, the computer can’t tell where the door is, sets an error code (that on GMs will NOT turn on any warning lights), and “parks” the door in one spot until the error is corrected. This would end the clicking because the computer isn’t even trying any longer.
It’s December. IDK where you are, but where I am it’s been quite cold and A/C cooling isn’t an issue. If the blend door was “parked” on heat in my area, most wouldn’t know a thing about it until the first hot days of spring/summer when they need A/C. Then they’d be posting about not having A/C…because the blend door is “parked” in the heating position.
Understood. I’ve used both heat and defrost since it stopped the clicking. But it sounds like thsi spring, when I need air conditioning, is when it’s going to the shop! I’ll test out A/C for a few minutes next time I’m in the car to test your theory (which I’m sure is right). I’ll post back. I promise. I’ve even set a reminder for myself!
EDIT: This is supposed to be a reply to cigroller’s post. But I can’t seem to get it working right.
GM vehicles are well known for making this noise. And it usually comes from the air/recirculation door actuator.
When the vehicle is off, the air door closes. When you use the remote to open the vehicle, the air door moves to open position. This done so the cabin can vent so you don’t pop your eardrums when you slam the door shut.
Tester’s idea is very plausible. You can likely figure out which actuator is messed up by having the error codes read. Generic scanner won’t work though. It has to be one powerful enough to read manufacturer specific body codes.
