hi, i have 2010 toyota corolla le japan made,some time i turning left i hear the knocking noise.i already change wheel bearing both side , the strut also both side, the passenger side axle replace the cv boot 2 time with regrease since 2012 jan and left side axle change the whole new axle since 2011 jan , my driver side outter tie are changed since 2014 nov, the mechanic look at the suspension that is not leaking on every suspension parts. so what could be the noise from. i guess may be is the passenger side axle or right outter tie rod , or internal tie rod or ball joint. could you tell me what would be the noise come from or how to check. thank you. i have 220k mile with bad burning oil like 1k mile drive have to add 5w20 half quar to 1 quar. how to solve to reduce burn oil and the engine seal is not leak. thank you.
Noise might be from the right side axle. Grab the axle and try wiggling it to check if there’s any play in it.
Some auto manufacturers consider 1 quart of oil consumption every 1,000 miles as being normal on their brand new vehicles.
how do i sure the noise is from axle.and could you tell me what part could do knocking noise. will it break if i still driving.what will be the other way to check without remove the axle.tq
Can you describe under what conditions the knocking occurs?
When going over bumps"
When turning, and in synch with the wheel speed?
Only under acceleration, deceleration, or some other specific load?
If it occurs over bumps, I’d start checking all the bushings, especially the ones that hold the sway bar to the unibody (chassis). In your car it’ll probably be the crossmember. Also check he upper strut mounts.
If it occurs when turning and is in synch with the speed of the wheel, I’d suspect the inner CV joint.
Describe the conditions and we’ll see if we can help.
Just saw a video on this idk if it is what you are talking about but please take a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVoKGqtMkjo
If you hear a definite knocking or quite loud clicking sound when turning left sharply, and accelerating from a slow speed, like immediately after a stop, that would usually be the outer CV joint is failing. Replacing the passenger side half-axel would be the fix.
1000 miles per quart isn’t that big of a problem with 220 k miles (miles, right, not km?). It’s almost to be expected. Especially if the car has been driven mostly in city type driving. Most folks would just check the oil frequently and live w/it. Since it isn’t leaking, the two likely causes are the piston rings are wearing and letting some oil get past, or the valve guide seals are leaking. If you notice a burst of blue smoke out the tailpipe after starting the car when it has been sitting for several hours, that is a sign of worn valve guide seals.
@JimFrost It’s common knowledge that particular guy in the video is a WHACKO
He needs to lay off the drugs
Some of his ideas and repairs are way out there
I doubt he’s actually doing drugs he’s just eccentric
Maybe he’s just “high on life” . . .
Eccentric is too kind of a word for that guy
I’ll bet his neighbors hate him
I feel sorry for his wife and kids, too
Imagine being married to that guy
Imagine having that guy as a dad . . . what a role model
Say what you will about his mechanical abilities, I don’t know enough to judge on that. But as far as his personality goes I think you are being a bit too critical/condemning. We’re all entitled to our opinions about others. His personality reminds me a lot of Richard Feynman.
Just curious, @db4690, exactly what part of the diagnosis and the fix presented by Scotty do you disagree with.
I can’t speak for db, but I personally would have much preferred to see him use torque wrenches. Whether one should in his personal work is a debatable issue, but if you’re showing others how to do the job you should show them how to do it correctly. I also didn’t like his leaving the steering knuckle hanging on the brake line. That’s not a good practice. In addition, he’s showing removal of the holding bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut as being easy. Those bolts are a high torque application, and he should have address that. And one last thing; the axle nut on many cars (mine, for example) is a non-reusable nut, Rather than a cotter pin, it’s held in place by its own friction. He should have pointed that common fact out in the video so nobody’s nut comes loose after they follow his video.
In short, I didn’t have the same issues with his personality that others might have, but I did have a problem with his very incomplete description of a critical installation as his taking shortcuts such as not using a torque wrench. If he can’t show how to do the job properly, he shouldn’t have made the video.
hi everyone, only when i turn with gas pedal press or without also been happen the knocking noise.
hi every1 , how to know my engine mount go bad. my toyota corolla 2010 LE when accelerate from 20mile/hour to 30 my car is shaking after 30 no more shake. are this is my motor mount go bad for the first time if i keep driving were it be worst then.
Manual or automatic transmission? This doesn’t sound like a motor mount problem.
is automatic transmission
Sit in the car with the hood up and brakes on. Shift from R to D and back. You will see the top of the engine rock a little. If it moves more than 1/2", there may be an engine mount problem (in addition to your noise).
“only when i turn with gas pedal press or without also been happen the knocking noise.”
I’m still going with a bad inner CV joint.
if the cv joint something wrong , were it shake on 20 to 30mile/hr driving after 30 is fine.
i have check my all the strut that is not problem?