It was Duralast from Autozone. I don’t think Moog makes brake drums.
Sorry, I was looking up parts under my T&C earlier not my focus (I have an 09 and thankfully haven’t had the bearings go bad yet) which has discs in the back not drums 
(although the E-brake is a drum on the left rear along with the disk)
I have a 2006 Ford Focus and I am replacing the Hub with the bearing already installed in the hub. The torque for that nut is 174 lb. My torque wrench only goes up to 165 lb. Will that be acceptable for the bearing torque?
I’m not gonna read everything but you can never tell who made the bearing these days. It’s not light they were likely made by Tim kin in the USA. So only quality parts. For my perspective the hub nuts are single use locking nuts, so once they are used once they may come loose. I have paid the $10 for new ones but have also reused them but used lock title on them. Had no problem with either. Some say not to use an air tool on them but to get that kind of torque requires a long pipe anyway.
See if you can borrow a torque wrench from an auto parts store.
The front-axle nut torque spec on my Corolla is higher than my torque wrench can measure. My solution, I stand on the breaker bar at the distance from the socket needed for my weight to cause the required torque. For example if I needed 175 foot pounds, and I weighed 175 pounds, I’d stand on the bar one foot from the socket. Better to use an calibrated torque wrench of course, but this method seems to work ok for me. Used same method on my prior VW Rabbit as well.
Is this the front hub? You have three or four bolts that bolt the hub to the steering knuckle on the front, they have a torque but it is not 174 lb/ft. More like 50-80. The nut that holds the axle to the hub is torqued to 174 lb/ft. Most torque specs are +/- 10% so 165 would be OK, IF that is accurate. Most torque wrenches are only accurate in the 20% to 80% of their max range. Better to use a torque wrench rated for up to 250 lb/ft.
If this is a rear hub, there is no Axle nut unless you have AWD. Only the mounting bolts.
The rear hub bearing is pressed in the hub and the hub bearing slides over the rear spindle, if it has rear drum brakes, then the rear drum IS the rear hub and bearing as shown in the above post… . If it is rear disc brakes then it has a slip on rear hub w/bearing also (with out the rotor)…
If you are talking about replacing the rear hub/drum w/bearing as shown above, (you can get it without the bearing also) and if you have ABS brakes, then you need to make sure the new drums or hub have the correct inner seal (also as shown in pic) as IT IS the ABS tone ring and the new drum may have the non ABS seal on it… So either take a chance and if the ABS light does not come on, your are good (as long as no issues before), but if the light comes on then you will either need to remove the old tone rings (made in the seal outer body) or buy a new one…
ABS tone ring/inner seal
Here’s what you need to do:
Go to Ford and buy the OEM nut for that bearing axle. Second, rent or buy a torque wrench that goes up to 174lb or more and return it if you don’t need. Trust me, spend that little bit more money and time.
Wheel bearings have a VERY high rate of failure from DIYs because of those two very things: the non OEM nut and the improper torque. Pressing it incorrectly could also damage but less likely. The wrong nut won’t be able to squeeze together the bearings tight enough.
You’d want to get this done correctly the first time because its very labor intensive. Having to redo a bearing again is up there with getting bed bugs in your bed!
When done correctly, the bearings will last forever, I am still on the original set of bearings on my car and the one I replaced was do to me replacing things incorrectly.
Thank you for writing back I appreciate your input. I did buy a torque wrench that goes up to 250 foot pounds. And I know the manager well from the auto parts store and he told me I can get a refund after I use it. I did buy a nut but it’s Duralast brand. But the main problem I’m having now is trying to get that old spindle off I tried everything to loosen those four bolts in the back not to mention being hard to get at. I even disconnected the bottom of the shock absorber to move it out of the way. I heated it up with map gas and my torch, PB Blaster soaking for 2 days, CRC freeze off. Not to mention all kinds of tools I bought. I am having a mechanic come here to my house but I have to wait till the first week of November. His truck is filled with every tool imaginable he’s been doing this for 30 years. I’ve had him come here before. I can’t believe how quickly he gets this stuff done from the past and such short of time. I’m almost 70 I can’t do much of this anymore like I did since I was 18. So once that spindle is off it will be a cakewalk after that. The mechanic even laughed when he asked me what vehicle it is. He’s worked on so many focuses. Part after part. Thank you my friend.
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I see. The bolt on bearings are a bit different from the press in bearings. But I still highly recommend to get the OEM nut from Ford. One of the cause of failure for my bearing was using the Autozone nut. I had to replace my bearing 3 times in order to figure out that it was the nut.
Okay I can do that with the OEM nut. But the spindle brand is also Duralast. So should I still get a OEM nut with the Duralast spindle? By the way I bought the drum with the bearing already installed new. Thank you
Actually I think you’ll be ok with the Duralast nut. This is an already pressed in bearing so you don’t have to do much but to just torque it down properly.
With bearings that doesn’t already come pressed in, you have to set the “pre load” with the OEM axle nut using the torque wrench. This is why cars are moving away from press in bearings to pre pressed in bearings because of high failure install rates. But the press in bearings are generally stronger, found on SUVs.
If it fails prematurely, just get the store to replace the part lol because we know it would be due to their axle nut.
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Are you doing the front or rear bearing??? You have not been responding…
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Is this what you bought?? You keep saying spindle…
Or is this what you are calling the spindle??
That is the steering knuckle…
Yes it’s also called a spindle stub shaft.
You still have not answered the question
Why are you replacing the spindle?? Is the shaft damaged??
I drove 6 MI with the bearing being shot barely making it home… I called AAA in the process they told me 3 hours. I said screw that so I tried it to make it. I did make it home with the tire wobbling my crazy and smoking. The bearing nut would not come off the spindle it was fused onto there from Heat. I had to drill that off. And half of the spindle had no more threads to screw the nut if I wanted to reuse it LOL I knew it would cause a lot of damage driving that length of time so that’s why I we’ll have to change all this stuff.
And yes I know I’m lucky the wheel didn’t come off everybody keeps telling me LOL