I’m not sure if I’m doing this right.
I’ve got a brand new genuine Weber 32/36 dgev. I was told the float level does not come set so I checked and it was way off from the info I could find.
I adjusted the float drop to 51mm, no problem.
Then it sounds like I’m supposed to hold the Carb top vertical and let the float rest on the needle valve without compressing it. I set that to 35mm.
It just seems way too high. When I compress the needle valve the float hits the screw for the power valve.
Does this sound /look right? 
I thought the float should be level when it makes contact with the needle valve.
Every carb I’ve rebuilt, the float level was adjusted in this manner.
The tab on the float that comes in contact with the float valve is slightly bent until the specified float level is achieved.
Tester
The float level is used to fine tune the F/A ratio to the engine. If it runs a bit rich, increase the float level, too lean, decrease it. There are limits and if it doesn’t come into the desired ratio, then you have to re-jet it.
If your fuel pump puts out more than 3 psi, you should opt for the nitril needle instead of the solid one. I think it is good to 7 psi. If you have more pressure than that, you will need a fuel pressure regulator that is adjustable in the 2-7 range or thereabouts.
I’ve never adjusted that carb, so I don’t know the specifics of how the float is adjusted; but I have rebuilt and adjusted my Ford truck’s Autolite 2100 carb a few times. I can chime in w/some general guidance anyway. You probably already understand this, but the basic idea is when the float reaches a certain level it plugs off the gas inlet. So a person might think you really have to seat that valve forcefully for it to stop the gas flow at the inlet, so they set the float by pulling hard on the float, which presses the valve tip hard into the seat. But actually it takes very little force to plug off the inlet, so what the instructions are saying apparently is “don’t do that” and instead to just let hold the works at 90 degrees to what is in normal operation, which will let the float rest in its “valve closed” orientation against the valve apparatus without you applying any force. B/c that’s where the float will be at the point the valve closes. i.e. If you physically pull up on the float to close the valve, that will be too high. Now which two surfaces to measure between, no idea. On my truck it is more like Tester describes, except on the truck the float is down in a chamber so I measure from the top surface of the chamber to the top of the float. That’s called a “dry” measurement btw. I always do a wet measurement too, to confirm the level is correct. For the most part the dry method is sufficient, don’t usually have to reset the float at all when verifying w/ the wet measurement.
edit: Don’t those Webers have a sight glass so you can verify the wet level is correct when it is on the car?
Any I’ve done are either as tester described with the paper gauge they give you or on small engines its using a drill bit between the float and the casing.
Sometimes the setting is not correct because of the way the floar arm is bent. At times it may take 2 pair of needle nose to bend it properly. This is hard for me to articulate. From the pic it certainly doesn’t look right.
Thats the problem. The float arm was bent. A couple needle noses did the trick. Took alot of trial and error to get it right.
No sight glass, but that’s a good idea to double check the level. I should probably just buy a new float. Thanks.