OK, I’m going to go out on a limb a little and say with computers and bar codes and assembly lines, it is virtually impossible for a VIN to not correspond to the car. So back to basics. The VIN would be the metal stamped and bar coded plate permanently attached to the dash area and visible through the windshield. There should be no evidence of tampering. Also the same number will be on paper tags on other parts such as the fenders to see if they all match. Sometimes a title will get mixed up but if your title matches the plate on the car, that’s the biggest thing.
Now the VIN only has basic information including, the company, engine, trans, vehicle type, year, plant built, and then the sequential number. It may not have information such as the trim level. There is another document called a build sheet that will have a code for every option put on the car. Located sometimes in the trunk, glove box, under the seat, by spare tire, etc. Very hard to decipher the codes even with the factory service manual, but a dealer can.
So I think first verify the VIN according to the factory service manual, dealer, or maybe it can be found on line. See if that matches what you have. If not, then you’re gonna have to go back to the dealer to see what happened. Otherwise, the build sheet might clarify the parts in question depending on what exactly the part is. Also, after-market lists that parts houses have may not be accurate.