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Troubleshooting computer codes

The car is a Dodge Intrepid 95, looked up repair manuals at the library, can’t find it in any. Anyways, the specific codes are 34 and 66. I’m still trying to figure out what causes the 5 to 10 second delayed start (have been for the longest time). Car is fine once it starts up. Just peculiar that this has been going on so long and can’t find the reason. My friends dad has fixed a lot of stuff on it and is puzzled by it, too. My boyfriends brother- who works at the junk yard and is fairly knowledgeable on the subject suggested it is most likely a problem with the fuel injectors or even a leak somewhere between the fuel pump and engine. So, I brought this up to my friends dad and he said a way to know for sure if it is he could remove the cap to one of the spark plugs- sorry, maybe he said the spark plug wire which sounds correct?- and if their is a spark, the issue is with the fuel injectors. So, I guess I have a couple questions for you guys. Sorry if this post’s a bit confusing, I can’t talk as elequently about cars as the experts :slight_smile:

Cycle the key from off to run a few times. Keep it in the run position for about 4 seconds each time, and in the off position for 1 second. After three or four times, turn it to start and see if it starts right away. If it does, then the pressure of the fuel line is leaking down somewhere. If the engine runs rough at first, then it is probably one or more leaky fuel injectors, if not, then it is probably the check valve in the fuel pump. Another chance is the fuel pressure regulator.

Paragraphs, paragraphs, paragraphs! Posts with no paragraph breaks, such as yours, are very hard to read.

Delayed start. Is that the problem?

Try this; turn the key to ON, wait 5 seconds, then turn to START. See if the engine starts right away with this procedure. If so, the problem is loss of fuel pressure when the car is sitting. The 5-second wait gives the fuel pump time to pressurize the system. There is a check valve in the system, to maintain pressure, but they can get old and not work correctly.

If the car runs OK once it starts the fuel injectors are working, and they are not the problem. If there were a leak you’d smell gasoline. If the spark plugs were not all firing the engine would not run on all cylinders.

Sorry, can’t help you with the computer codes. You need a service manual.

This Is What I List

34 = Cruise Control Solenoid Driver Circuit (I used to get that on a Dodge that had no cruise from the factory)

66 = CCD Bus System

Sorry 'bout my rambling paragraphs.
“Loss of fuel pressure when the car is sitting,” THATS what I was told. Thanx, that jogged my memory. So, if that is what it is, do I need to bother worrying? Like I said, this has been going on for a while and at this point I am more curious about what is causing it since car runs fine otherwise.

I will try that and reply back (I have to work tonight, so it 'ill probably be tomorrow). Thanx!

Yep, if the only way fuel pressure comes up is by cycling the key 4 or 5 times then low fuel pressure is the problem.

Turning the ignition switch to the run position for five seconds WILL NOT reprime a fuel system that has bled down. That’s because the fuel pump only runs for a second or two and then shuts off no matter how long the ignition switch in the run position. In order reprime the fuel system the ignition switch is turned to the run position for two seconds and then turned off. And then repeated several times. Each time this is done the fuel pump cycles enough times to reprime the fuel system and establish the proper fuel pressure.


This response from yahoo answers seems to be from someone who has dealt with the problem: Also, raise the car, and with electrical contact cleaner, clean all the gunk from the wire connectors. Then, examine the wiring for any physical damage. Disconnect, and reconnect, the electrical connectors on the underside of the transmission and engine.

You can get the meanings of the trouble codes at this Dodge site: Trouble code 34 is: “Open or shorted condition in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.” Using the repair manual, you should be able to handle this.

For delayed start while cranking, push the gas pedal down an inch and crank it. If it starts right up, your throttle positioner isn’t working.

Oh boy, I think my car’s got multiple personalities. I have done what you suggested before, pleasedodgevan, only a couple times has it started up right away. Crap, mayby I should bring it to the mechanic but seeing as how their are many different possible sources as to the problem are they gona look at me and see dollar signs? I always feel intimitated in these places.

So I followed your suggestion. No luck, didn’t start up right away. Engine did run rough.

You’ve given up after trying how many of the suggestions…One? The more diagnosis the mechanic has to do, the more you’ll have to pay. The more you do, the diagnostic time could be less…and cost less.