I just finished Replacing my Shift Solenoid and i still have the same issue. Reverse is back to normal tho and its wanting to change into the Next gear from 1st gear but something is preventing it to do so. Could it be the Overdrive?
I also got the check engine light on. Still trying to find a Code Reader
Edit: I found the code reader and it came back with P0132, P0135 & P0141 Which is just the O² Sensors For the Exhaust Pipes which is none of my concern atm
Why did you start another thread for the same problem ?
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Lets combined the misinformation from the previous thread with this one.
The problem is usually with the governor pressure sensor. You need a scan tool that can connect with the TCM to read faults and monitor the governor pressure sensor value.
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That would have been the place to start, before replacing anything. Because now you have to drop the pan again to fix what’s actually failing.
Don’t do anything else until you can access fault codes and live data from the transmission.
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I found it but the only codes that showed up were P0132, P0135 & P0141. Which is the O² Sensors for the exhaust which is none of my concern as the Exhaust pipes are off for me trying to disconnect the Shift Solenoid.
I knew what the problem was but not specifically. Dont really need a code reader to figure out the transmission isnt shifting. And i couldnt get the codes bc my brother took out my battery and was unable to get any codes off the computer. But i replaced the shift solenoid and the truck ran only in first gear ALOT better than with the old one as the old one you couldnt really get the truck to move. And i got codes from driving on my property for 10 Mins only in first gear (obv) and the only codes that shown up were for the O² Sensors which arent much of a concern to worry about
I presume you found your code reader, which presented you with those active codes. The problem is that the codes you need access to may not be possible to find with your code reader, unless it is able to retrieve transmission control module codes. There are several modules (computers) in modern cars, the most common code readers are only able to read power train control module codes (like the P codes you listed). Other modules potentially producing diagnostic codes that basic code readers can’t read are the transmission control module, the ABS module, and the body control module. IMO a method to read out all the diagnostic codes should come with every newly purchased car, gratis, part of the car’s purchase price. But nobody’s listening to me on this topic … lol .
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Unfortunately, I don’t know much about which code readers have which functions. Both of my vehicles pre-date OBD II. Pro shops generally use “Tech 2” code readers, which apparently are the version to which all other versions are compared. A Tech 2 of course is very expensive. .
The other differentiation between diy’er code readers is whether they offer “mode 6” functionality. Mode 6 is real time monitoring of parameters, very useful for determining fuel trim data. Some have real time display of O2 sensor output in chart format, very useful for assessing cat-converter function.
For more info, suggest to surf over to Harbor Freight website. They have code readers from $30 to over $300. If it says “live data”, that means it has at least some mode 6 functionality. The high end code readers often have another cost, for software upgrades as new car designs appear. The software upgrade cost can be very expensive.
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That thing isn’t going to help you at all. All that’s going to access is basic emissions related codes. You want real time data for what’s happening inside the transmission.
Mode 6 won’t help at all with a transmission issue.
Well i already have the Transmission Pressure Sensor & Governor Pressure Sensor On-Order at O’Reillys for me to Pay Tomorrow. Ill put them in Tomorrow and if it still doesnt work after that, ill just have it sent to a Mechanic to work on it
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A poster here a while ago was having hard to diagnose symptoms with his car. He asked for ideas here, and based on those and his own, replaced a bunch of stuff, none of which solved the problem. So he took the car to a professional shop for a proper diagnosis. Shop tech gave a spot on diagnosis, said problem was valve timing was off, probably timing belt had skipped a few teeth. Poster purchased & diy’er installed timing belt kit, engine then ran perfectly, symptom entirely gone.
Sometimes a pro diagnosis is the best path, even for the most stalwart diy’ers.
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