I hesitate but I think maybe let a trans shop see what the think. Is it just a delayed shift or is it actually neutraling out. Like it is going into neutral and then into gear. Not too long before that I had an overhaul on my Gm. If it was hot out and I made a particular side trip, it would neutral out between 1-2 or 3-4, don’t remember, but at the same stop light just about every time. The shop really didn’t know what to make of it but I think it was a worn shaft or something not normally replaced. Never did it in winter and it was near the end of its life anyway.
I believe its a delayed shifting because it still accelerates okay it just revs up and then quiets down and it only does it from 1st to 2nd and sometimes it’ll do it 3rd to 4th but I never feels like it neutraling out. The guy Im taking it to tomorrow will give me a better idea of what’s going on and hopefully tell me if its salvageable or it needs an overhaul… if he says that word this car is definitely going up for sale for about 700 and being listed as is “no idea what the problems are”
Don’t remember saying anything about hard shifting or shuddering….
We call that flair up or in normal terms Slipping…
Anytime you have flair up (slipping) the clutches are wearing prematurely, as well as it is overheating the fluid from the friction caused by the flair up…
But again, cross your fingers…
In that case, what are the recommended steps from here? Replacing the transmission?
Take it to a transmission shop and let them diag it for you… worst thing they can say is you need a transmission rebuild…
What did they say when they did the full diag and flashed the ECU???
BTW: reading codes is only part of a full diag… Normally automatics have ports that shops can hook up a gauge to and see what the pressures for each gear etc are doing…
Now one thing that a good shop can do is to remove the pan and see what the fluid looks like, if there is seal, clutch, metals, what type of metal, how much metal etc materials are in the fluid and that can/will tell a builder a lot of info… But since you took maters into your own hands and changed the filter and fluid, part of the story is lost now… So it will be much harder to know what is going on…
If it does need a rebuild and you do decide to have it built, I would find a builder willing to use the correct TransGo valve body repair kit and follow the instructions from post 39, the builder will know what to do you don’t need to tell him about the instructions… lol…
This is from a friends very overheated 4 speed that killed the transmission…
This is what the filter looked like…
This is what (mine) it looks like when you blow the stator up in the torque converter… oops… lol
This is the back side of the filter from my converter blowing up…
I believe that is called “flaring”. The shift process involves a brief neutral condition, then re-engagement. If re-learning doesn’t do the trick, the hydraulic pressure may be leaking off a little somewhere in the valve body, imperfect seal, instead of building up as quickly as it would if the seals were new. There are clutches involved with the shift process too, and those could be slipping as well.
In days of yore (my Ford C4 transmission for example) there were easy-to-do adjustments to the band’s possible, just by wrenching on a bolt on the outside of the transmission case. I doubt that method is available on your transmission though. 1960’s, Bill Cosby had a humorous comedy bit about adjusting transmission bands.
So new issue im having.
Ive been getting a metal rattling when i crankk up and it stays. When revving it doesnt go away. Sounds like running a nail against a metal chain link fence, just started today before replacing the alternator on my 2005 ford focus zx4 2.0 ltr. New alternator installed and is continue to making that noise, does not go away when i accelerate. Any tipsnon troubleshooting this, i checked the heat shield and its secure. It honestly sounds like its coming from the timing chain area…
Remove the drive (serp) belt and start the car, if the noise goes away then it is one of the accessories (alt etc)… If the noise is still there then it is either internal engine or something like a heat shield or cracked flexplate (flywheel), or torque converter bolt or flexplate bolts etc etc…
Maybe take a video of the noise and post it here so we will have a better idea of what it sounds like, while revving it and at idle…
Sometimes it’s helpful to use a short length of garden hose as a stethoscope to narrow down where a sound is originating. My first guess, something loose in the exhaust system.