I don’t know if I’m explaining it right but I’ve been hard shifting between gears and at one point I was slipping the gear, and then the only codes being given is the solenoids. I tried a cheap one tool and it gave the code p0751 which is the solenoid performance a stuck off position every time I clear it it comes back after the hard shift that it’s stuck off. So I change the solenoids and the filter and fluid and I hard shift more frequently with the same exact code coming up. since I came back from Town with that code I used this new innova scanner tool and it gives me the same code and recommends changing the solenoids again. Now I fully get your thoughts on it being the hydraulics in it but what I’m feeling and dealing with says more than likely bad/imroper connections or cheap parts. But since I’m gonna have the pan off anyways and I don’t wanna come behind myself again,.do you recommend trying to potentially unclog the lines, and if so what’s the best way to go about that??
Never mind below reply, somehow got missed up on the year of OP’s vehicle…
OK, we need to back up and start over here, those are not shift solenoids as in the traditional on/off solenoid allowing fluid flow… These are 3 phase electric motors (Solenoid Valve Clutch Actuators) that drive gears to move the clutch forks to move the throw out bearings to engage the pressure plate to the clutch disc X2 in the DCT setup… so NO oil flow through them…
Think of this as a manual transmission/transaxle (because it is) and NOT an automatic…
It is a very simple design in a very complicated way… lol
The clutch and shift arms are all automatically controlled by gears and the 2 solenoid motors, no fluid drive/flow in the transaxle…
I am thinking that your code P0751 solenoid performance a stuck off position, on a automatic transmission means just that, a stuck solenoid open or closed, on your transmission that can not be the case as there is no fluid flow… So that make it more of a solenoid performance code, the performance is the solenoid (actuator) spinning to slow or to fast, to fast is applying the clutch to fast or hard like dumping the clutch, to slow would be a soft slipping feel like riding the clutch allowing it to slip to much… As the TCM controls the speed of the solenoid(s) (actuator) then if the solenoid (actuator) is mainly acting up in 4th gear it sounds to me like the TCM is either bad or needs to be flashed… As one solenoid (actuator) control 1,3,5 and the other one controls2,4, and 6 gears respectively… If one solenoid (actuator) was bad it would stand to reason half your gears would be acting up…
Here is a pretty good video on your transaxle and how it works, a little slow and boring but still good…
EDIT: Not sure about the 3 phase part of the motor thing but they are brushless motors…
Do you know if it has an open circuit (resistance too high) or circuit shorted (resistance too low) code, or does stuck off mean open circuit?
Just a short question/comment but it sounds like the solenoids/motors replaced are not the solenoids causing the code. So naturally the problem is not fixed and the replacement again and wire harness is a wild goose chase? Was a factory manual used? Maybe I read it all wrong. Just another reason I don’t mess with transmissions.
This to answer bing’s question about DCT, And below reply has nothing to do with OP’s post, somehow got missed up on the year of OP’s vehicle…
There are a total of 4 electric motors, 2 that control the shifting forks (shift actuator) and those 2 motors are part of the TCM…
The other 2 motors are what is called the solenoid (clutch actuator) and is what the OP has already replaced…
The solenoids (clutch actuator) takes the place of your foot pressing the clutch pedal, or better yet releasing the clutch pedal as the pressure plates are in the release (free spinning mode) normally, when the solenoid (clutch actuator) engages it is like you letting out on the clutch…
A DCT 6 speed transmission/transaxle is like having 2 seperate 3 speed (different ratios, not counting reverse) transmissions with 2 seperate clutch assembly’s including seperate throw out bearings all in one case controlled buy a common controller (TCM)…
And the TCM shifter actuators (motors) take the place of you manually shifting the gears…
This vehicle is a 2005 model year vehicle, 2 I 05 is a misprint. ZX4 trim level was used in the 2000’s.
Well damn!!.. Never mind then… 
Thanks for the correction Nevada_545…
Yea the misprint was my fault, it was supposed to be an 2l 05 as in 2liter 2005 
but all the ideas I’ve been given have taken me around around…So in summary I messed up lol but to solve my issue in regards to the (actuator)solenoid, I have yet to reset the TCM and that was actually something I hadn’t thought of until now. Would resetting TCM help me??
You can’t know that, you have to test for that. The TCM can’t know the reason, only that when the valve is commanded, nothing happens.
If the valve doesn’t open, it could be a mechanical OR an electrical issue with the valve. The coil could be open or shorted.
The wiring harness could be open or shorted.
The Trans Control Module could have a bad driver for that valve.
If you just assume the valve is bad and replace it… and the code comes back… all you did was add another thing you have to test for functionality. This is the problem with reading codes and assuming they actually TELL you what to fix. The codes only point out WHAT is happening, not WHY.
It couldn’t hurt. Give it a try.
Yeah I fully understand this bit here. I am more of a computer guy with the wherewithal to adapt this skills to other areas, so I am okay at turning a wrench and doing maintenance repairs and such on cars but when it comes to how they operate and things of that nature, I’m just monkey with a wrench. I know enough about the operations of a car but when you go deeper into the how’s and the why’s then I’m lost and having to rely on others but coming from the computer technician field I know what’s it’s like to be handed a problem with a person of questionable back ground on their machine and not knowing what they don’t know. And now I’m that guy with the questionable background and having no clue what I’m doing to check this stuff out. But you’re explaining it very well that I have the logistics of what is supposed to be happening with the transmission and giving me enough to try different things with it but I’m still a horse and the watering pond not knowing how to drink…everything I’m getting from here keeps coming back to possible electrical issues or a bad part. And I’m capable of checking for bad part but when it comes to testing the electrical stuff, that’s when I’m back to being the monkey with a voltmeter, I’ll probably end up plugging my nose with the prongs lol.
What’s the most cost effective solution for getting this transmission running correctly and where can I go online to research testing the functionality of the electrical components to make sure they are working the way they are supposed to?
The Ford service manual is a good source if you can find one online.
Mitchells online repair manuals …not free… nor is Alldata.
They have wiring diagrams and will tell you how things work and how to test them.
I expect the quickest path to a solution is to hire a shop having the Ford pro scan tool & expertise to perform the scan tool solenoid test for all 5 solenoids. Then post the results here, could still be a diy’er fix available. Without the pro scan tool test results, OP is flying blind. Worse case, OP will discover the only solution is a full transmission rebuild or replacement transmission.
I see no p0751 diagnostic code listed for the 2015 focus.
This is not 15 model it’s a 05 model
Update on OP, I changed out solenoids with OEM from a transmission shop and it fixed the hard shifting and P0751 engine code.
Only issue now is hesitation going from the first 2 gears
Engine revs up for a about 2 seconds around 25MPH and then drops once it gets into gear and then around 45 mph it’ll rev up and drop back down. If it weren’t for the revving for 2/2.5 seconds I wouldn’t even know it went into gear. Any ideas what I should do?
The TCM has a learning algorithm running in it to make up for part variations and wear. Drive it a bit and see if it improves over time.
iv put about 120 miles on it and it still does the shifting slippage or whatever it is called, so im taking it out about 100 more miles tomorrow and see if there is any improvement while on the way back home im taking it this place that does ECU resets and full diagnosis’ and see what they say. He mentioned to me there is a lady who has the same model car as mine but its a zx3 or 5 and every time it rains she has to get the ecu reset thanks to ford mounting the tcm on the bottom of the tranny and she lost her splash shield some time ago so it has this issue im having and has to be reset every time it rains. Fingers crossed the driving smoothens it out but hey for 75 bucks a full diagnosis and reset aint bad either
Hopefully that takes care of it…
He should tell her to replace the slash shield, it would be a lot cheaper then reflashing the TCM after ever rain… Sounds like he doesn’t care much about his customers… Unless she just refuses to replace it…
Remember that you can still have valve body issues and or internal transmission issues…
Known problems for your 2005 Focus 2.0L 4F27E transmission (at least I hope I got the vehicle info right this time lol)
- Wrong gear starts
- No 2nd
- Skips 2nd
- Kick-down neutrals at speed
- TCC slip
Here is some repair instructions on valve body repair, basic stuff but good info on what is what and a few known issues and causes…
Yeah I think she just refused to replace it and he can’t be bothered to force her to do it lol but oh sheesh , I really hope I don’t have failing TCC, im not looking to drop another transmission in this old car. But I really don’t have any of those problems going on in my car right now besides that hesitancy shifting into second. I took it all the way up to 70 with some minor struggling but otherwise there was no shuddering or hard shifting like I said if it weren’t for it revving up before going into gear I wouldn’t even have any issues in the transmission. You don’t feel the transmission shift gears at all.