If I have a stud, that doesn’t have any notch in it to drive it, or a tapered end in hexagon shop or e-torx. Meaning a threaded rod with threads all the way on it. Is there a socket or wrenches that can go around the diameter of the stud and rotated to drive the stud into a thread hole?
Put two nuts on the stud. Tighten one against the other. Should work to be able to screw in the stud. Search “jam nut” if you don’t understand what I’m referring to
There are stud removers that use rollers to grip the stud. This is the set I use;
These look like a good stud extractor set. Is there such a thing as a stud driver? I know extractors can be used to remove studs or broken bolts, and often end up damaging the stud, but don’t care because it’s probably from an already broken bolts. But is there such a thing to drive a stud instead of extract? I know about the two nut method, but if you have limited space or something, I’m wonder if there’s a socket or wrench tool to drive a stud into a threaded hole.
Those drivers work in both directions, they won’t damage the threads with normal use. If the stud is seized, the threads will become marred but not as bad as using vise grips.
Keep in mind, you don’t torque a stud in tightly! The stud is snugged in with light torque and the nut used to hold the part is torqued. The stud tool is not needed for that.
@YoshiMoshi3 Please don’t take this as hostile, but in the spirit I intended, which is constructive criticism. Based on what I’ve seen in this thread and your previous thread on fixing the body rust on this car, you have the mechanical aptitude of my cat, and this car belongs in the junkyard due to extensive rust. Put it out of it’s misery already.
Nothing much constructive there…
Tips on how to install and uninstall studs make for an interesting diy’er topic, independent of the poster’s actual problem. I used some of these tips presented here to effect a diy’er bicycle bottom bracket repair last year in fact.
The jam nut system works just fine and if you do it with the two nuts up near the head end of the rod a socket that fits the upper nut will work fine. When it’s all the way to where you want the rod just hold the lower nut with a wrench and unscrew the upper nut with the same socket.
A jam nut does not always work if the stud is tight and the only access is with a socket, the outboard nut will just loosen. Some manufactures use thread-locker on everything making removal difficult. It is nice to have the right tool for the job.
I agree completely, but I was trying to support a person who clearly needs some help.
How do you remove it when you’re done driving the stud?
If by “It” you mean the two jamb nuts, just unlock them (without loosening the stud) and unscrew them.
I think sestivers is asking about the Acorn nut thinking it might just back the threaded stub out .
But true based on some of the questions we get asked here.
The OP seems like a nice guy though.
That’s a topic for a different post!
Just kidding. But I would put a small spacer inside the nut to keep the thread ends from locking, maybe a little oil on the threads, and if it did not release easily, grip the stud as low as possible. If I had to do stud driving frequently I would make a tool for this purpose if I could not buy one.