Timing belt/water pump

Going to have a mechanic do my timing belt/water pump on my 2000 Honda CR-V 2wd AT.
I’m using Gates parts (saw recommedations here and elsewhere).
He said would R/R belt/tensioner and spring/water pump and all associated gaskets. Should there be anything else during this job that would be advisable to look at. Someone told me something about “seals under there” that should be checked for leaks.
One other quick question. I’m R/R my fuel filter. I’ve seen your supposed to prime the fuel pump by turning the key to the the auxillary position and then to off and do this three times??? Is that the correct way to do it? Do I even have to do that, didn’t on previous cars.
Any advice on both questions will be appreciated as always.
Thanks guys.

Yes, and given age, I would just replace them preemptively, even if they are not leaking.
Much cheaper than to go back there in a year or two and essentially paying full price for the new timing belt service.

That means camshaft- and crankshaft seals

Don’t just “check” them . . . replace them all, even if they look fine

you do NOT want to assume they’re okay and not replace them, only to have them start leaking 6 months later. The car is 20 years old, after all.

Also replace the timing belt idler pulley(s) along with the tensioner and belt, which you already mentioned

The bottom line is this . . . you want to replace EVERYTHING under the timing belt cover. This is to ensure it’s all good and you can sleep well until the next timing belt job, which will be several years down the road.

Carefully inspect the accessory drive belt(s) now. If they’re in any questionable, have new ones on hand. That way, when you’re reassembling everything, you’ll just toss the old belts and install the new ones instead. Same thing goes for the accessory drive belt tensioner and idler. Check now have new ones on hand if they’re at all questionable.

2 Likes

thanks greendrag0n

db4690,

Thanks for the specifics. My mechanic did say the Gates kit he uses does include the pulleys.
But I will tell him I want the camshaft and crankshaft seals replaced also. Looks like there about $20 - $30 total.
Are there any particular brands that are better, and more importantly any brands to avoid?
Again, thanks db.

Have them check the oil pump gasket as well while they are there. It’s only another $10 to change it.

thanks Keith.
Can anybody lend some knowledge about “priming the fuel pump” after I change the fuel filter tomorrow?
Thanks.

You might need to “key dance” to get fuel and fuel pressure up to the engine: turn key to Run (not all the way to Start), back Off then Run, etc. Each Off-Run cycle gives the fuel pump a couple seconds to run and the engine should then start when you turn all the way to Start.

thanks shanonia

Replace all the coolant hoses.

If it hasn’t been done recently I’d probably replace the cooling system’s thermostat when doing that job also, as well as refilling the cooling system w/fresh Honda coolant. A point of clarification, it’s only the cam/crank seals at the front of the engine that are replaced, not the rear seals.

As far as the fuel filter, I’ve never had to do any priming afterward. The Corolla apparently knows how to do this by itself. Might be necessary w/the CRV, don’t know. When removing the existing fuel filter I always depressurize the fuel system first. That’s so gasoline doesn’t spray all over the place when I disconnect the fuel lines to the filter. I do it by removing the fuel pump relay and starting the engine. It starts, then stalls in 10 -15 seconds, and then I know the fuel system is depressurized. Be sure to carefully clean the area around the filter’s connectors first to avoid getting gunk in the fuel lines during the filter replacement.

Thanks to all of you for your advice and furthering my car knowledge. As always, I appreciated the help.