Do any USA cars use a timing belt in oil design? Similar configuration to to how a timing chain is inside an oil containing cover, but using a timing belt rather than a chain? I saw reference to that configuration for a Euro 2007 Ford Focus diesel engine, so was just curious if that’s used in the USA too? Or maybe I’m not understand the terminology?
I’ve never seen that, would be very surprised, link?
I found this link. Is it helpful to you?
The 1.0L Ecoboost 3 cylinder and 1.5L Ecoboost 3 cylinders have a “wet belt” design.
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Is there a way just by looking in the engine compartment that you can tell if the engine uses a wet belt vs a timing chain?
Besides those 2 Ecoboost engines I doubt you’ll see one. I’ll file this next to Ford’s dual clutch transmission and bad valve seat designs…
I’m thinking the engine would look like one with a timing chain from the outside.
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Seems to work. Honda has been using belts in oil on some of their small engines for decades.
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I’ve never had an issue with timing belts because they were a very doable for the back yard mechanic. Timing chains added a lot of complexity because of lubrication. Some engines you now have to drop the oil pan, deal with timing cover gaskets. Belts were a lot easier. I was able to replace the timing belt on my 90 and 98 pathfinders in just a couple hours. The hardest part was removing the radiator. But a wet belt system - I’d personally stay away from. Chains last an extremely long time. But replacing a belt in a wet belt system can really complicate the process. And doing that ever 100k miles (3 times for our average time) - NO THANKS.
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Depends a lot on the car’s configuration. For my early 90’s Corolla, including replacing the tensioner but not the water pump, that job takes me about 4 hours, since I’ve I learned how. The first time I did that job, nearly 8 hours.
Concur, the belt in oil configuration seems like it would create a time consuming mess to replace.
Oh I agree. I did a couple belts on my wifes Accords. A traverse mounted engine is a lot more difficult. The Pathfinders engine was front facing. Plenty of room to work. I’m glad her Lexus has a timing chain.
On a recent Best of Car Talk podcast the caller says she has an older straight 6 Camaro. Her mechanic likes to work on her car b/c there is so much room he can stand on the floor right next to the engine, inside the engine compartment … lol
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The 2023-2024 1.2L Chevy Trax has the wet timing belt.
Three cylinder, turbo charged, GDI, wet timing belt….I just bought one 
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Thanks for posting about your new car’s configuration. Does “GDI” mean “gasoline direct injection”? I’m seeing some recommendations for cars with wet timing belt designs that measuring the width of the timing belt should be part of routine maintenance, and some manufacturers are providing a method to do that easily, but requiring a special tool. The oil can apparently be absorbed & cause the timing belt to swell a little I guess.
Yup….Gasoline direct injection……like a diesel.
The wet rubber belt has been around since about 2007 in Automobiles and light trucks , mostly in Europe…….Definitely problematic compared to a timing chain .
I’ll bet with the typical American car owner and their lack of maintenance the Chevy 1.2 L rubber belt will be a catastrophic for many in 5-6 years.
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Engine naming terminology seens pretty confusing. What we mostly need to know is gas vs diesel and port injection vs direct injection. Seems simple enough to come up w/engine names that ID those parameters. But these are four engine’s I’ve recently encountered; Honda 1.8 EX GT, Kia 1.6 GTDI, Kia 1.6 CRDi, Chevy GDI .
… lol
Smart people will trade-in this vehicle before 100,000 miles, and let the next owner deal with the cost of replacing the belt, or rebuilding the engine after it lets go.
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My 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.4 L will still be running strong long after my Chevy Trax needs a total rebuild.
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I’m guessing one problem w/the timing belt in oil configuration, the belt begins to degrade, resulting in bits of timing belt clogging the oil system.
Nahh. My experience has been that these engines can go as far as 50-60K miles before rubber bits start to plug up the oil sump. 
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Of course I’m just hoping for the best since I own one of these Chevy BIO systems : ( but I’ve seen some videos from Europe where the belts looked good well after the equivalent of 100,000 miles. I think it was some French cars or light trucks.
The BIO disaster most of us Americans know about is the Ford eco boost and those premature failures are supposedly caused by a misaligned ( because of a silicone bushing failure) belt tensioner not the rubber deteriorating by 50-60,000 miles.
Still a bad design, my opinion, but maybe not as bad as the Ford screw up.