The Jeep which is a Heaping Pile of (insert creative language here*)

My lovely car… oh how I love it, but there’s been some questionable things.

For starters I have had to replace 2 out of the 4 oxygen sensors it has being a 5.7L V8 Hemi… Bank 1 Sensor 1… and Bank 2 Sensor 1.

After the fact, the Jeep still decided to throw out more codes to me tonight. P0153.

I guess the full list of codes I’ve had is this:

I have also replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor because it also threw out the code for that. Anyway, I guess I am looking for some guidance in what to do next.

I have driven the vehicle two times where one time it was bunking like a bronco (which stopped after replacing Bank 2 sensor 1)

Then recently the oil light came on and my car had a loss of power in accelerating, so I replaced Bank 1 Sensor 1…

Anyway… I need help. A lot of help…

The first help needed is ours… what year is this Grand Cherokee and how many miles on it.

1 Like

I completely forgot to list that. Thank you!!!

2010 Jeep grand Cherokee limited V8 5.7L Hemi.

166,716 Miles.

Was there enough oil in the engine?? Was the oil light red? How far did you drive it like that??

If you ran the engine out of oil, the codes don’t matter…the engine might be scrap

Nope, that was the first thing I checked after I parked it was how much oil was in it.

The oil was in the safe zone and didn’t look overly dirty which would make sense because I changed it last month.

Not to mention the whole story goes as this.

Im driving the vehicle down the road, then i come to a light and the oil light comes on and the vehicle goes into a limp mode… I put my hazards on since I am not able to goooo anywhere from there and I turn the car off and then back on…. Then it is fine until I’m closer to campus and then it does it again, so I repeat the steps again… then I brought it in to the shop and they replace Sensor 1 Bank 1 and it didn’t do it again on my way home… so I am confused as hell

Are you buying cheap Auto Zone (Bosch) O2 sensors, or even universal ones, or using good quality NGK/Denso sensors??..

1 Like

lol good question… The Bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor I replaced was in fact a Bosch Auto Zone Sensor (because I am a broke college student)

Bank 1 Sensor 1 was done by our auto shop, so I assume that one was a good quality one.

That could be part of your problem…
P0153 trouble code definition 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

The shop may have done the same thing if you said I am broke also… lol

I have (only because nothing else available) installed Bosch O2’s and had to immediately warranty them out with a NGK or Denso… Junk…

You need to be reading live data to know what everything is doing…

I can look into the cost of the NGK sensor for Bank 2 sensor 1 and try to purchase it and swap the part out.

That’s the part I did myself, so thankfully I already know how to swap it.

And for Bank 1 Sensor 1… our shops invoice listed the price of the part and it said it cost around 120, so I don’t believe it is the Bosch Sensor.

I would call the shop and ask, the price difference is not much, so it could be the cheap Bosch after being marked up… NGK looks to be the OEM part… And Napa list is only about $10 difference between the OEM NGK vs junk Bosch…

Don’t get me wrong, Bosch has it’s place, just not on you vehicle as O2 sensors… lol

Again, you need to see live DATA to know what is going on…

Okay sounds good, I will give them a call tomorrow to determine which brand of O2 sensor they used.

In the meantime… since I am relatively new to car repairs what does live Data mean exactly. I know it has to deal with my OBD2 Scanner which my vehicle has installed already, but yeah what does live data mean?

Also what is the best auto store to go to…
-O Reillys

Video showing live data, didn’t watch it but it should give you an understanding of what it is…
But you can pull it up on better OBD2 scanners…

I prefer (in order) Napa, Car Quest (if any left, ADV bought them out), Advance Auto Parts (ADV), then O’Reilly’s… I stay as far away from AZ as possible if able… Sometimes O’Reilly’s has parts that nobody else has, so it all depends on what you need…

Not gonna lie… those numbers look very scary and overwhelming. HAHA

Also good thing there’s a Napa in my town. and since they do free OBD2 scanning… I could bring it there and have them look at everything too right?

1 Like

Remember that parts houses are not ASE certified mechanics (mostly), they are only sales people with some automotive knowledge, if they were mechanics then they would be making way more money working on cars, not sell parts for them, as long as health is not an issue… My back and health took me out of the game 2 years ago… lol

Would it be worth it to:

  1. Determine what O2 sensor Brand my auto shop puts in and then taking my jeep back to them since they have three ASE certified mechanics and having them replace the rest of them?

A poor student should not be driving a v8 anything. Especially a jeep

Your codes are most all related to O2 sensor issues. They should have cleared out with the replacement of the sensors and the Crank sensor… but clearly there are still issues. Given the age, mileage and brand (Jeep) I’d say you have wiring harness and maybe leaking exhaust issues.

Once the new sensors were installed, were the codes cleared? And these are the ones that came back? Or are these the codes you saw before any work was done?

No, I recommend you taking it to a good shop with a good word of mouth reputation and pay them to do a proper diagnostic, then decide if you want to DIYer or just pay them to do the work with a warranty… And if not already, request OEM (brand) parts…

1 Like