Remember, ASE stands for Ask Someone Else!
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It is possible the O2 sensors aren’t even the problem, they are and were always ok. Instead it is something else, like an intake manifold gasket leak, exhaust system leak, etc. The computer can only read the sensor output; it has no control over where the O2 came from. For an O2 sensor engine to work correctly, it has to be air tight all the way from the engine air filter to the end of the exhaust pipe.
If I had this problem the first thing I’d check is that. If everything appeared to be airtight the whole path, I’d connect an o-scope to the o2 sensor output and compare that signal vs time trace to one that is working correctly. At idle, 1500 , & 2500 rpm.
That would honestly make sense tbh because I still get codes that come through time an time again which are P0153 and P2096 which just tell me which O2 sensor being wonky and then the p2096 code just tells me the air and fuel ratio is too lean since then. BUT one thing to look forward to is that since fixing the last 02 sensor… I haven’t had any loss of power or anything like that. However, they did determine that there is a small exhaust leak somewhere that I will need to bring in and get fixed, but now I just wait for enough money to do that. LETS HOPE IT WORKS. If not, I’m sure it’s the wiring harness having issues.
My bil likes jeeps. He complained one time that the new oil seal was going to cost $400. I go yup it’s a jeep. I like jeeps but would never own one. Not good for people without a lot of money.
I would really concentrate on that . . .
exhaust leaks affect oxygen sensor operation, fuel trims AND catalytic converter operation
Jeeps are fine along as a 1972 or older, either manufactured by AMC or Willys. I had a CJ5 with the AMC 304, dumb thing AMC did, the V8 only came with a 3 speed, to get a 4 speed, had to choose the inline 6.
I’m most concerned about the oil light because it has nothing to do with the sensors. So first thing to do is to turn the key to the on position without starting the engine. That will turn on all your dash lights.
You will have a red oil light and you might have a yellow oil light. Not all vehicles have the yellow one but all have the red one. Yellow is ASAP, Red is IMMEDIATE. Yellow means that the oil level is a quart or more low. Red is oil pressure is too low to properly lubricate the engine.
If you were getting a red oil light, shutting down and restarting is not a fix. If that was working, you may just have a bad oil pressure sensor. If you get the oil light mostly at idle and it kinda flickers, then you may have a clogged oil filter. If you had a recent oil change, the filter used might be defective and only it needs to be replaced. If it has been over 3k miles since last oil change, then it is best to do a complete oil change.
I am not recommending changing the oil every 3k miles as a general rule. As long as you are not getting a red oil light, go by the owners manual.
As for the exhaust leak, if it is before the last catalytic converter, then it must be addressed first. Sensor data is unreliable if there is a leak in this area. If it is past the last cat, such as a muffler or tail pipe, then it should be repaired for safety reasons (CO poisoning) but is not affecting the sensors.
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