Its great that these high performance vehicles use thick oils that actually provide protection.
No sense in running water oil in anything especially a Porsche.
Look at the ad that Nevada_545 provided. The oil is 0W-40. Isn’t that a bit too thin for you?
Yeah I missed the part where 0W- was a thick oil…
Isn’t the 0W- part the weight of the oil when it is cold??
Isn’t the most wear and tear of an engine happen at start up??
Unless I am missing something, a 5W- or 10W- or even a 15W- would be a much thicker oil at cold start up than the 0W- oil is…
Asking for a friend… 
Now, a top fuel engine runs a straight 70W for it’s 11,000 HP engines, now that is a truly thick oil for a truly high performance engine…
A good way to describe it in words is- a 0W20 weight oil will thin no more than a 20W would at operating temperature.
All oils thin with temperature. Viscosity improvers are polymer chains that coil up with heat and make the oil thin less than oil would without them.
Graphically, it would look like this:
What I am really having a hard time with wrapping my head around is the cSt (centistokes = kinematic viscosity) @ 100°C thingy, and then I just saw the cP (centipoise = dynamic viscosity) @ 100°C thingy…
And the relation to them breaking down(?) with the short trips and stuff…
I saw the Mobil 1 Hybrid oil and thought, well other than the engine start/stop part of a hybrid, my Tacoma engine kinda runs like a hybrid, short trips, lots of idling type stuff, rarely burning off the fuel and moister in the oil…
So would it be beneficial for me to swap from my normal Toyota oil or even the basic Mobil 1 (advanced fuel economy(?) and changing my oil every 6 months (average 2200 miles a year last 2 years) to Mobil 1 Hybrid and start changing the oil every 12 months…
What I have found is that even though Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 Hybrid 0W-20 oil is the same weight, it’s cSt is different with the hybrid being lower to start off with, and part of what lowers the cSt rating is the fuel and moister in the oil… 
I am not so worried about oil viscosity degrading under those conditions- it’s more of a symptom to me. The bigger issue is the formation of organic acids that result from exposure to moisture and combustion byproducts over time. Those acids can do real harm once the alkaline detergents (TBN) break down and can no longer protect against them.
For the most part, for my short trip vehicles, as long as they get up to operating temp I feel pretty good about dissipating the condensates. And that happens faster than ever with modern designs. Funny line from Seinfeld- you can’t over dry, just like you can’t over wet. 
+1
I typically run the IC engine in my PHEV once every 1.5 to 2 weeks, but I make sure that I drive for at least 7 miles with the IC engine running, in order to “burn off” the moisture, and it’s more typical that I drive for more than 50 miles with the IC engine.
During the first two years that I owned the vehicle, I was doing 6 month oil changes, but I’m now comfortable with a 1 year oil change interval because of my driving habits. Over the space of a year, the IC engine typically powers the vehicle for 3k miles or less, and I never use the IC engine for very short runs.
Ive never liked any of the Haldeman dealerships
Their salesman turned me off, so I didn’t buy the car from them. And even though they are the closest dealership, I stopped using them for service, and I now go to a different dealership when it’s time for maintenance.
In this day and age i thought it was fairly simple to determine what makes a good franchise. Treat women with respect even when alone, dont lie or cheat, and be honest. You dont need a couple pages of mission statements and press releases. Just do what you say you will do. I thought we picked a good dealer but now im glad the deal fell through. Its been over a month trying to get our $1000 deposit back. All the way to the top and back down again. Bunch of ■■■■■■ ■■■■■. So no more mr. Nice guy.
That’s a lot of engine oil, more than the OP bought.
That would be infuriating. When I bought the Rav4, the dealer said they would take a deposit to secure it, had my card information but never charged a dime on it. Months later, it arrived and they honored the deal even though it was a very high demand car they could have sold to someone else for more money. I will go back there first when we look for our next car…
We had good experiences with the closest Honda dealer when I bought my 2005 Accord. That led me to visit when I wanted to trade it in. That experience led to buying a 2017 Accord, which led to a 2019 Odyssey. Our daughter bought her 2020 Pilot from them because of our good experiences. One of my wife’s friends bought 2 CRVs from them based on our happy experiences. The owner retired and sold the dealership to a local Ford and Lincoln dealer. I have no experience with them. Hopefully, they are still good. They probably will be. Honda insists on excellent customer care.
Have you ever dealt with any of the Ciocca dealerships? This mega dealer group has spread from PA to NJ, and I’ve never heard anything good about them. In fact, the number of negative Ciocca reviews I’ve seen is very high.
When I began car shopping a few years ago, I wanted to go to Flemington, NJ, because the guy who owned most of the dealerships in that town had a good reputation. However, when he died, they were bought-up by Ciocca, so I then bypassed Flemington.
It’s very possible that I won’t be buying another car in my remaining years, but if I am still in the market for a car, I will head for the no-haggle PA dealership where I made an excellent deal (Between the absence of “ADP” and a much better trade-in for my Outback, I saved ~$7k). I just hope that they’re not bought-out by Ciocca.
I haven’t but I did run into Charlie Kerbeck at a social occasion. Charlie sold his Chevrolet store in Atlantic City to Ciocca, and said they were a little sharp for his tastes.