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Tacoma oxygen sensor mount

Okay, my 2002 Tacoma has never had the oxygen sensors changed even though it’s at 140,000 and the check engine light has never come on. I thought it would be a good idea to replace them anyway. Maybe not such a good idea, though.

When I was removing the heavily rusted nuts holding the rear sensor to the exhaust pipe between the Catalytic Converter and the muffler, one of the bolts sheared off. It’s now too short to hold the original mounting nut.

I’m wondering if I need to completely replace that section of pipe or are these studs in the sensor mount pad removable/replaceable. I can’t really see up in there well enough to know if they can be replaced or not.

If anyone has this information I sure would appreciate it. Thanks.

If you have access to an oxyacetylene or oxy-propane torch, and a good pair of vise grips or stud extractors, and skills with both, you are in luck. This is a fairly routine repair on a Toyota, and the studs are replaceable and easy to find. If you don’t have the torch, tools, and skills, take it to a good exhaust shop and 'fess up. They should be able to install new studs for you fairly cheaply. On an '02, the pipe should still be in good shape. If the shop wants to replace the pipe, find a different shop. This is an easy fix.

Thanks, this is what I wanted to know. I think I can get the stud out, just didn’t want to waste my time if it was a piece that was welded or made into the mount. Thanks again.

Just don’t break it off flush. You need lots of heat on it before they will come loose, like glowing orange. That’s why I say oxyacetylene and not just propane or MAPP gas. That stuff’s not hot enough.

I tried the dealer and a muffler shop. Both tell me they do not offer the studs. These are special type studs it appears as the top is smooth and tapered to allow the lock nut to get onto it.

Try a hardware store. I wish I could remember what thread they are so I could tell you, but I don’t, so I can’t. Any stud with the same thread pattern will work, and any nut that fits the stud will work. The tapered part of the stud is to ease assembly, and if one is careful enough and doesn’t install the nuts with power tools, it won’t make a difference. Use lock washers if you don’t get lock nuts with the new studs. They are metric, I can tell you that, maybe M6 or M8?

Thanks for the info. I believe this is the route I’m going to take.