I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla: I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can’t say I didn’t cross the cables but I’m pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this ‘VSC System Check’ error on my dash, the ‘Check Engine’ light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
The AC fuse was blown, I tried swapping the fuse and it blew again as soon as I plugged it back in. Then I tried disconnecting the battery, waited 10 minutes, plugged the fuse in, connected the battery and it blew again. Then I tried swapping out the AC relay and changing the fuse and sadly it blew again. I am thinking it may be a bad AC blower, but it was working fine until the battery went dead.
Guessing you either hooked up the jumper cables in the wrong order or crossed them causing some damage, or maybe even hooked the neg battery terminal up before the pos and that can cause a spark and possible damage to something…
Have you checked to see what codes are making the CEL (check engine light) come on and what are they… The VSC normally comes on when the CEL comes on on Toyota’s…
You have a short somewhere causing the fuse to blow, try unplugging the blower motor and see if the fuse blows again or not… if everything else is hooked up and the fuse stays good then I would just check to make sure you don’t have power to the ground (possible melted harness), if no power to the ground then replace the blower motor… If the blower motor unplugged still blows the fuse then unplug the resistor and recheck… do the same thing moving up the circuit until you find the problem… Remember there is always more then one way to skin a cat as the old saying goes… lol
I have Jump started my daughters 2017 Corolla with no ill effects…
Thank you for the reply it gave a handful of codes, but the only codes related to the AC was the B1442 Air Inlet Damper Control Servo. Unfortunately, my friend ad the car and I was not there when it was jumped.
Air Inlet Damper Control Servo Motor harness is open or shorted
Air Inlet Damper Control Servo Motor circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Air Conditioning Amplifier
Number 2 could possibly be your fuse blowing…
BTW, You really need to take care of all the codes…
The thing about having a CEL on is there is only one light and it doesn’t get brighter the more codes it has… You could have a very simple reason the CEL is on and not fix it, but unless you constantly check for codes you don’t know if something else is going bad possibly costing much more money if not taking care of soon…
Concur, the best path forward at this point, as far as help here, post a list of all of the currently active diagnostic codes. They usually should be addressed in a particular order, otherwise risk spending time & resources solving a symptom that would otherwise go away by itself once the underlying problem is fixed.
A problematic jump start might blow fuses and fusible links, but once those are repaired, it usually it wouldn’t cause other fuses to blow repeatedly. Some functions may not work correctly however. hmm … so what’s causing the AC fuse to keep blowing? Suggest to start by telling us the fuse number and the amp rating. There are usually more than one AC-related fuses.
I am guessing your car has automatic temperature control, the blower module shorted during the jump start. The blower module is part of the blower motor.
P2118 could have been caused by the blown ETCS fuse, the check engine light should go out after a few drive cycles.
I should probably pull off the glove box and unplug blower motor, than plugged in another fuse. If it does not blow, then we know the blower motor was the problem
Do you have the 2zr-fae or 2zr-fe engine? Should be on a sticker, underside of hood. I’m presuming the second one.
From what I see, assuming your car is configured w/ manual A/C, the 50 a htr fuse circuit goes to the heater relay, then to the blower fan motor, then to the blower resistor, then to a control module. Your shop will have to trace the circuit to see which of those is causing the short circuit. They’d probably first try removing the heater relay and disconnect the fan blower motor, hoping that one of those is the culprit. the others will be more timing consuming to diagnose.
You’ve got a bevy of codes and incomplete readiness monitors. The P2118 is the one I’d worry the most about, but it is possible that’s already solved as mentioned above. Hopefully the loss of communication between modules has resolved itself. If not, that’s next in line. There’s a weird one for the transmission, start ability malfunction, a little worrying. Given the list of problems, starting with the AC fuse blowing seems a reasonable place to start.
fyi , a friend of mine with similar model year Corolla had a big problem getting the O2 sensor readiness monitor to complete, so suggest to keep a weather eye on that, as it could cause an emissions test failure.
Thanks for the update OP. I wonder how that happened?, wouldn’t expect it from a jump-start problem. Maybe just a coincidence, unrelated to the jump start.
Would Nice if OP could redo header since he knows issue.
Reversed battery- shorted blower motor?
Since thread will exist forever
A better header would provide more info for searches
The blower control module is integrated into the blower motor, the transistor or diode shorted when the polarity was reversed. Reversing the polarity on a DC motor alone won’t cause a short.
