This was a new tie rod end and a new nut, right? I always use a new nut on tie-rod ends whenever the old nut is removed, even if I’m using the same tie rod end. 97 ft lbs is the correct torque from what I can see. I haven’t done that job is a while myself (just a diy’er) but as I recall I hold the stud in place from below with a wrench, while I tighten the nut on top with a crow’s-foot wrench. I usually go to some trouble at the beginning of the process to get all the parts aligned correctly first, often using a couple bungee cords. There’s a jam nut on the tie rod itself that I leave loose until I’ve tightened the main stud nut, so the tie rod isn’t locked in any particular angle as it is pulled into place. then I tighten that jam nut afterwards. I seem to recall using a big c-clamp to get things lines up and held in place before tightening the main nut too. The parts involved are sort of springy and hard to get lined up otherwise. Some ideas for what might have caused your problem
- stud wasn’t oriented perpendicular through the hole in the knuckle arm., but cocked at a slight angle.
- nut was started cross threaded
- wrong tie rod end, or wrong nut for the stud
- defective part(s) right out of the box.
Suggest to take the original part to the auto parts store w/you next time, and insist the replacement part match as exactly as possible on all dimensions. I expect the part you purchased may be a compromise fit, so it will work in many different cars. Makes it simple to stock replacement parts, but the part doesn’t work quite right in some vehicles. .