Its not a model sold in the US but I have a ASX from 2017, its a stick shift with 5 gears. Engine is mivec 1.6 with 117 hp. Its kinda smaller Outlander.
I just purchased this one at around 90k miles2 weeks ago. While doing some maintenance I also asked the mechanic to change gearbox oil (liqui moly high performance gl3 75w80)After the change today I recognized that while the engine is on car dont want to go into some gears, 3rd and 4th. It feels like there is resistance when you try to push in, they dont wanna go in but if you push hard enough they do.
It happens only when the car is on and stationary.
It happens more or less 50% when i try while being stationary.
When the car is on the move all gears go in fine and smooth
If you pump the clutch (while stationary) pedal few times then it goes into 3rd and 4th fine.
Before the oil change, no such problem occured or i did not feel as while stationary i only choose 1st or reverse. Today in the morning i think i tried to put to 3 by mistake and recognized it.
I have bled the clutch fluid today and nothing changed.
I have also read somewhere that while being stationary, some gears may not engage easily by design and 3/4th are sitting on the same fork.
Mechanic will be on holiday for a week so i have some time before going back to him but it is super frustrating. Any ideas what it could be ?
OK, this has nothing to do with your problem. I am just curious about your screen name. In the US Apache refers to a Native American Indian Tribe. Does it mean something else in Poland ?
No, no other meaning i am originally Armenian and Kurdish, my father loved western movies and would make up stories to entertain us using the native American tribe names when i was a small kid.
That is normal, the gears don’t easily mesh when they are not moving.
You shouldn’t need 3rd or 4th gear while stopped. If you ever have trouble shifting into 1st of reverse, you can use that method to spin the input shaft to get the gears to mesh.
Tell him to take a month off, you don’t need a new transmission.
Thanks! I have tried to move to 3rd gear probably by mistake and this is how it all srarted. I havent seen any examples that car wouldnt go into gears even while being stationary apart from hondas (5th was blocked) so it kinda put me on fire.
The navajo were the famous code talkers that helped win world war two. Their history is honored. The apache are evidently closely related in ancestry, language, and from th3 same southwest US location. Just for general information.
I think you have a clutch problem. The clutch is not fully releasing so the rotating input gear is turning with so much force that the synchronizers cannot do the matching needed to mesh with the stationary 3rd or 4th. Since pumping helps, the problem could also be that the hydraulic system needs repair. I suspect 1st and 2nd to also be a bit rough, tending to move the car while the clutch is (almost) disengaged.
Not in all cases pumping helps while stationary. It is very random when it goes into 3rd and 4th (while being stationary). In some cases when i pump and push, it wont go in.
Like i said weirdly, apart from those cases and especially while the car is moving all go in very smoothly
As long as the transmission goes into 1st and reverse easy while stationary with the engine running your OK, reverse is typically the hardest gear to go into, so if it is going as normal, then you aren’t having clutch disengagement issues… As long as you installed the correct fluid in the transaxle, I wouldn’t give 3rd and 4th gears another thought while the vehicle is stationary…
And the Chevrolet Apache truck was produced from 1958 to 1961…
Oddly, with all the vehicles I have had with manual transmissions, even a three on the tree with overdrive, I have never tried shifting into anything other that first or reverse when standing still. Even in snow where some might recommend starting in second to reduce wheel spin, I just never needed to try it.
I too think you have a non-issue in as much your vehicle shifts normally when moving.
never came to my mind as well however, the car is new to me and gearbox is quite notchy, while i tried 1st i pushed into 3rd and then i got confused when i felt the block on third then i tried all and it went on
Agree with all who say there is no problem with the transmission, and since 1 and R are the only gears engaged from standstill, and they are ok and there is no problem when moving, I would just ignore it. I do have a questions though: Is synthetic 75w 80 GL3 an OEM spec or just what the mechanic had available? I ask because I have an '07 MX-5 six-speed that shifts noticeably better using a specific Ford branded gear oil.. My particular transmission is made by Ford and used by Mazda during their joint venture. I didn’t think oil would make such a difference
gl3/gl4 and 75w80 are the OEM recommendations. Couldnt find the OEM oil
(mitsu) itself one so I was thinking about Shell or Liqui Moly (dont know how famous LM are in the US but very good quality German brand). I was also reading comments for the one I bought - from the owners that used it specifically and they had no problems. Long story short, it fits in the requirements.
The gears change like butter while moving and when the engine is off, that is why I was surprised not being able to engage while stationary but thanks a lot for all the feedback
I will repeat…I think your clutch is not fully disengaging. Put the drive wheels up on jackstands. Have someone else put the clutch all the way down before starting the car. Put the car in first and then start the car. Observe whether the drive wheels remain stationary. If not, touch the brake enough to stop them and release. Do they start rotating again? (All of this with the clutch down.)
Start all over, engine off and in second. If the clutch will not fully release, the clutch is bad and the car will report the set of symptoms you describe.
I believe your car has a dual-mass flywheel.
If so, then that could be the cause of your problem. When the spring holders between the two halves of the flywheel get weak, the springs can slightly lift, causing the two halves to separate slightly.
When that happens, it feels like the clutch is not fully disengaging.
I presume that one of the failure modes of a clutch system is catastrophic failure. Since his symptoms are indicating a failure to fully disengage, and since the fault my be in the hydraulic system or the flywheel system or the clutch itself, it would be advised to get a better diagnosis. I personally was surprised to learn about dual-mass flywheels.
yeah it ll be checked next week but like I said the most interesting part is fully normal gear engagement all the time apart from standstill for 3rd and 4th. no grinding noises, specifically no problems to go into 1st and reverse etc (no weird noises for those too). Hoping and thinking that not something important.
In case of clutch replacement needed, all set (excluding flywheel) is 150 bucks and of course plus labor which is not very expensive as well, in my area around 150 bucks. If flywheel comes into picture, thats another topic.
I was removing the battery and I saw that the shifting cables kind of block the way to part where you add the gearbox oil, thinking maybe mechanic had done something with them. We`ll see next week what he says when he s back