"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"

So far, the folks in this forum have been very helpful, and accurate, when it comes to this stuff. So I put a few questions out to you :slight_smile:



1. I have a new 2008 Mustang that someone backed into in a parking lot. There is a scratch on the front fender (about 6in long and 1in wide with chipped paint). Is there any easy Do-it-yourself way to cover that up that doesn’t involve my wife’s makeup or my nephew’s crayola’s?



2. I love the look of the GT’s but spending the extra money just wasn’t an option. I started looking oline at the hoodscoops, loufers, etc and noticed they are applied with 2MM(?) double sided tape. How durable is that stuff? I used it once to hold my glasses together and I was unimpressed.



3. Finally, why do all that stuff for the look and not get the performance? With the exception of swapping out a 5speed transmission for a 6speed transmission, is there anyway to modify the Mustang Coupe to get the similar horsepower, torque, and overall performance of a GT without doing a major overhaul?



No need to go into lots of detail or research on this one. I don’t plan on doing anything for a long, long time, if ever. I am simply curious.

  1. You can try a rubbing compound or very very fine grit sandpaper and wet sand it.

  2. Don’t do it. There’s nothing worse that a car that is trying to look fast but can’t back it up.

  3. The GT has a 5 speed manual, not a 6 speed (the shelby has a 6-speed). Short of a supercharger there’s not much you can do. Keep in mind the 4.0L V6 is basically a truck engine (it’s found in the Ranger and Explorer). It doesn’t like to rev and when you do unwind it, it’s rather coarse.

The differences between the V6 coupe and the GT are many. The engine obviously. The transmissions (manual) The V6 has the old stand by T-5 and the GT has a more robust TR-3650. The GT has much stiffer springs and shocks. The rear suspension is a 3 link on the GT. The GT gets bigger brakes, bigger wheels with sticky tires. The GT can also be had with a 3.55 rear end or 3.73 (Bullitt). Also all V8 Mustangs have limited slip diffs.

Yeah, I figured as much on #2. I enjoy the car I bought, but sometimes you can’t help wanting to fix things that aren’t broken…or in this case sticking feathers where they don’t belong!

I am still curious about the 2MM double sided tape though. Is this something that is used regular for cosmetic surgery on a vehicle? I must be missing something that is pretty common knowledge in regards to tape.

Are you referring to 3M tape? The vent visors for my truck windows is applied with it, and has held firm for 5 years. Even with impact damage that left cracks and chips in the plastic visor, the tape has held. Also, some of the badges on your car are probably held on with it right now. The key is to have a super clean surface to adhere to.

  1. I’m going to suggest that you get a book on basic autobody repair at the local bookstore. You have a nice looking car there. It would be a shame to do a beginner’s touch up.
  1. that tape is not the same stuff you get at the hardware store. Its tenacity is tested, validated, and permanent.

  2. I agree. I have noticed a trend toward charging lots of extra money for lots of cosmetics and little performance. I suspect the CAFE and emissions regulations have a lot to do with this trend. Manufacturers are trying to sell fast looking options but still keep the cars fuel efficient with low emissions.

The paint problem is not an easy one to do right. I have found it to be much cheaper to just pretend that my car has more power. I play the old racing game called Pole Position; congratulations, you’re qualified to race. I like hearing that voice. $19.99 when I bought it at Wal-Mart as a plug and play unit. I didn’t even remember that one, I bought it for the MS. Pac Man game which barely works. What a break! I used to play Pole Position when it was as big as a pinball machine and cost a quarter. The road is not a playground to me any more.

Well if you want to split hairs, the 4.0 is basically a V4 car engine.

  1. Touch up paint simply makes the scratch the same color, it does not make it look better.

  2. Butyl tape is what is used and forget it. Aftermarket tape is to thick and the parts stick out to far. Sometimes they fall off.

  3. Dream of the GT

It is possible to repair a scratch like this with a foo-foo can of spray paint if you can get lucky and find a match. With some Clear Coat and a lot of elbow grease it’s possible to make it nearly non-noticeable. If you’ve never done this kind of thing before then it can be REAL tough to do.
Forget that TV garbage about scratch fixers and markers; it’s bunk.

The Butyl tape mentioned will hold whatever you want for eternity. Just be sure and properly clean the area before applying the tape.

If you notice a lot of the late Mustangs such as yours the hood scoops, etc. look like they’re pretty much a stick-on affair from the factory anyway.

As to substantial horsepower it’s going to cost money if you want performance out of the V-6. I don’t remember the details but I think Ford in cooperation with Shelby is going to offer a high output 6 model. Something along the lines of 300-350 HP I think. Nothing to sneeze at.

About the only way you’ll get this out of yours is with cylinder head work, camshaft changes, and the addition of a supercharger.
The inexpensive way of getting a swift kick would be adding a Nitrous bottle but the bottle will eat up space in the back, be a general pain in the neck on a street car, along with being pricy to keep the bottle filled and voiding your warranty.

Besides, purging the bottle at the traffic light may get you some strange looks and if you screw up the purging process a Nitrous explosion is fun to watch; although it won’t be fun for you.

Are you talking about the new Ecoboost engine they’re gonna put in the F-150, Flex, and a few other vehicles?

3.5L EcoBoost V6 that employs twin turbochargers and direction injection to achieve 355 horsepower (@ 5,700 rpm) and 350 lb-ft of torque (@ 3,500 rpm). Not only is the EcoBoost V6 powerful, but it’s also relatively fuel efficient with MPG ratings of 22 on the highway and 18 combined

The Ecoboost isn’t due until the 2011 model at the earliest. But there is Shelby V6 available. It’s supercharged and is good for about 350 HP.

Read about it here: http://www.shelbyautos.com/cs6.asp

Saab had a V-4 about 30 years ago. Ford never offered a V-4.

Oh yes they did. Ford offered both ‘Essex’ V6 & ‘Cologne’ V6 derived V4 engine of 1650cc and 2000cc displacement.

The Essex V4 was produced from 1961 - 1977 and the Cologne V6 from 1962 - 1981.

The Saab V4 is the Cologne unit.

A truly dreadful engine it idled so badly you would lose any dental fillings while waiting for a traffic light change. Blown head gaskets were almost a daily event and were usually changed as part of each 6000 mile dealer service.

Both engines were mercifully killed off by the Pinto 2.0L oil burner.

The Flex will be one of the first to get the engine in 2010

Ford will finally bring the first of its EcoBoost engines to market in 2009, and one of the first few vehicles to get it will be the Flex. The 2010 Ford Flex will be offered with a 3.5L EcoBoost V6 that employs twin turbochargers and direction injection to achieve 355 horsepower (@ 5,700 rpm) and 350 lb-ft of torque (@ 3,500 rpm). Not only is the EcoBoost V6 powerful, but it’s also relatively fuel efficient with MPG ratings of 22 on the highway and 18 combined in the Flex. Take note, however, as AWD is a requirement when ordering the EcoBoost engine on either the SEL or Limited models. And Ford’s crossover isn’t the only vehicle that will offer the EcoBoost V6, as the Lincoln MKS and new MKT full-size, three-row crossover will also offer the motor in 2009.