djh - Stop with the profanity - this is a family forum - Edit your posts .
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I don’t think the immobilizer system prevents the car from cranking, just from starting. If I am correct, the problem with cranking is elsewhere, like the neutral safety switch (automatic transmission) or clutch safety switch (manual transmission).
You don’t need the lock cylinder, install the original ECU, hold the original key close to the immobilizer antenna while turning the ignition with the new key.
I have started vehicles with no lock cylinder by using a screwdriver and holding the good key near the halo.
BTW, I checked the service manual for this car, the module on the ignition lock is only an immobilizer antenna amplifier, it does not judge the key good or bad. The BCM and PCM recognize the key as valid.
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Your right key has to be positioned in the perfect spot, but just got the engine to crank. Gonna call it quits for the night and test for fuel and spark tomorrow along with swapping out those 2 sensors hopefully I can save this motor. Thanks man.
Tested for fuel today. Turned the key so I could hear fuel pump I think I heard it priming. So moved onto injectors. Had to remove the entire intake because it sprawls over the valve cover in the way of injectors and spark plugs. Once I freed up some room disconnected fuel line in front of rail and a decent amount of fuel spewed out. So I have fuel pressure at the rail, but when I went to check the injectors, I couldn’t hear clicking and my noid lights weren’t coming on. Starting to think my injectors aren’t firing, is this possibly still connected to immobilizer or should I dig deeper into the injectors issue. Also this stupid engine has such small spark plug holes I couldn’t fit any of my 5/8 sockets in the hole including the spark plug sockets. Looks like I’m buying a skinnier socket.
Without a crankshaft position signal the computer can’t operate the coils or injectors. Check the cam and crank sensor signals. Do you have a scanner that can display RPMs?
Most socket sets include a special spark plug socket. Are you using that? The Craftsman version works for my Corolla, which has the spark plugs in deep holes. If your special spark plug socket doesn’t fit for your car you may need to purchase a special Nissan-type socket Not overly expensive.
https://www.carid.com/nissan-versa-spark-plug-removal-tools/
Thanks for the help this far guys. I replaced the cam sensor yesterday before testing for fuel. The scanner said it was bad, but now that I think of it there was multiple cam shaft codes gonna go plug in the scanner again and see the exact codes that pop up or if they still do. Gonna also check for compression and spark. Also going to check fuel fuses in the ibdm. Should start narrowing my cause.
Also would maf and tps sensor being unplugged due to intake being off cause injectors to not fire. Should I plug them in even with entire intake and throttle body disconnected?
Went out to the garage this morning and I’m pretty sure this motor is toast. Previous owners stated that the motor just stopped running when she was driving. After testing the cam sensor connector for volts everything seemed okay around 5 volts. So I went to pull the plugs to test for compression spark plug 2 was drenched in oil not just the top but the whole thing. The rest were not as bad. I hooked up the compression tester and nothing. Went to turn over the engine and was spinning freely no resistance at all. There was slight resistance before but not much. Starting to think that the timing chain is broke or off. I’m thinking this could be throwing the cam code and causing the injectors to not fire. Either way there isn’t compression.
Remove the valve cover and manually spin the crankshaft, then you can see if the camshaft(s) are turning or not.
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